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A Place Beyond the Pines T 
Gill Route T 

A Place Beyond the Pines 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Schwartz & Chris Hirsch, (Ground-up) 7/5/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 562
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 6, 2013

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Climbers on Place Beyond the Pines. View from the ...

Description 

Very pleased with how this route turned out! Wander up NE face finding good gear and pulling well protected cruxes on excellent rock. Start the same as Gill Route from the talus perch. Place a piece right away then move out on to the face. Find your way to horizontal and prepare for the crux. Another smaller crux is near the top.

Location 

NE aspect of spire. 70m or double rope rap.

Protection 

Single rack to BD#2 & one #4 or #5
Nuts
5 Bolts
Bolted anchor


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Rock Climbing Photo: A Place Beyond the Pines 12-
A Place Beyond the Pines 12-

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By t.schwartz
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Direct start can be obtained by starting down low at the North West toe of the formation. Look for the wide parallel crack at the start. Be aware of the giant loose block at the top of the wide crack on the right. It probably wont tip off, but it does wobble a little! A few hand size pieces protect the bottom well and creates a really nice 45 meter pitch!
By Tony Schwartz
Sep 29, 2014

Detached pillar and large block removed. All cleaned up!
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Sep 29, 2014

I heard the crashing sounds from Little Devils Tower area. A little later I talked to some hikers that claim to have gotten sprayed by rocks...

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