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A Pitch In Time 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Weinstein, Dave Vernon 1974
Page Views: 1,923
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (69)
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Near the top of a pitch in time


This is a classic crack but extremely short. It offers excellent hand and fist jamming.

Start just up the hill from "Sunshine Chimney North" on the left facing dihedral. Climb the step overhanging hands to fist crack to a set of anchors.


Cams ranging from 2.5 to 4 friend

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Rock Climbing Photo: Caitlin L. on her way up pitch in time. Yup, it's ...
Caitlin L. on her way up pitch in time. Yup, it's ...

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By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Mar 11, 2013

Definitely fun jamming and steeper than most of Squamish. Good gear and shaded nicely.

Surprised this isn't more popular!
By Leroy
From: Cottonwood Heights
May 9, 2013

Beta on the extension? Looks bold at the top . . . .
By brian.m
May 14, 2013

99% sure it is bolted at the tope and ready with rap rings
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Jul 11, 2013

The extension is a bit bold. There's some solid pro in the irregular crack and then you reach out right to an angled rail. The last bit of climbing up the rail takes you above your gear, but the whipper is safe. It's good quality, and adds some extra value to this short route.
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 14, 2014

Classic! Steep, thuggish climbing running from thin hands to off-fists, but generally with options for every sized person within reach. Eats gear from .75 to 5 C4s. (Heavy on 2s and 3s)
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Aug 11, 2014

The extension makes it 10d and bumps it up to 4 stars. Seems silly to stop at the first chains. Take it to the top!
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Sep 18, 2014

I found it hard for 10b, but I'm not strong in the style
By Raddam6
Jun 29, 2015

Don't cheat yourself, do the extension. To the first anchor, its 3 star 10a, and to the top anchor 4 star 10d. The top is 100% safe with a black diamond 0.2 and 0.3, they are textbook. You could pobably place 2 of each but the stances up higher are much more strenuous. I unfortunately took a fall from the final move, which was exciting but turned out to be very gentle.
By Mark van Eijk
May 2, 2016

Just did the extension for the first time and was pleasantly surprised. It really does add a lot of value to an already great climb, albeit in a very different style (techy thin crack and arete slapping).

Protection for the extension is very good, just small and strenuous to place. I found a set of c3s from #2-#0 did the trick perfectly. The last moves happen with gear just below your feet, but they felt pretty comfortable.
By drewp
May 22, 2017

another vote for the extension being super fun and the whipper being safe and clean

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