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A National Acrobat T 
Centerfold T,S 
Dark Crystal, The T 
Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight S 
Dreamweaver S 
Hell Bent for Glory T 
Hell Bent For Leather  S 
Master of Reality  T 
Nativity in Black T 
Nothing but Net S 
R. O. U. S.  S 
Sabbra Cadabra T 

A National Acrobat 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 750'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover
New Route: Yes
Season: June - October
Page Views: 890
Submitted By: Ryan Hoover on Sep 26, 2017

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Pitch 8 roof

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A National Acrobat is beautiful route that connects The Diamond's most striking features. It is a physical journey that is sure to test all of you're granite skills.

P1 5.9: Climb R.O.U.S., a fun, dark bolted chimney.

P2 5.11: The fight begins. Start up the Dark Crystal (Seasonally wet, usually dries in early June), climb to where the original route breaks left. Instead, climb straight up, clip a bolt and pull the roof. A couple boulder moves lead to a pumpy hand traverse. Save a hand size piece of gear for the end.

P3 5.10: Climb the short tricky arête of the Dark Crystal. This could easily be linked into P4.

P4 5.12- (5.10+ A0): The pitch of eternal sadness. Break right from the ledge into a shallow right facing dihedral. After a somewhat moderate start, a short but devastatingly granite crux, followed by more easy climbing brings you into the Dihedral.

P5 5.11-: Dubbed the Book of Earth Mother, this pitch offers some of the best corner climbing Index has to offer. Perfect.

P6 5.11d: If the corner didn't get you giddy, this slightly overhung 40 meter pitch leads up the glorious Zebra Headwall. Discontinuous cracks, jugs, and a sloper crux is sure to grab your attention.

P7 5.0: Move belay up and right to the next anchor.

P8 5.11: Climb steep rock to a slab crux. Continue up the slab and pull the fat roof on sexy slopers.

P9 5.9: Fun climbing top's you out on the highest point of The Diamond.

"Just remember love is life and hate is living death. Treat your life for what it's worth and live for every breath. Looking back I've lived and learned, but now I'm wondering. Here I wait and only guess what this next life will bring"

Location 

This route starts on R.O.U.S., which is the dark bolted chimney uphill and left of the y intersection at the top of the Diamond Gully.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 4", a 5" cam can be used for the Dark Crystal if so inclined. A FULL 70 meter rope. We were barely able to simul-rap the Zebra pitch to reach the anchors with stretch. It may be wise to bring an 80 or a tag line (you will likely want to haul your pack anyhow). I don't think any nuts were placed.


Photos of A National Acrobat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 8 roof
Pitch 8 roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Left: P2 variation to the Dark Crystal.
 Right: P4...
Left: P2 variation to the Dark Crystal. Right: P4...
Rock Climbing Photo: Doesn't get better then this! Looking down the upp...
Doesn't get better then this! Looking down the upp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on the Zebra Headwall
Mike on the Zebra Headwall
Rock Climbing Photo: When you mean to do some rigging.
When you mean to do some rigging.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep goodness!!
Steep goodness!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Michal R cleaning The Zebra
Michal R cleaning The Zebra
Rock Climbing Photo: Green: Nativity in Black
 Red: A National Acrobat
BETA PHOTO: Green: Nativity in Black Red: A National Acrobat

Comments on A National Acrobat Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
Sep 28, 2017

This belongs in a guidebook: "a short but devastatingly granite crux".
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 28, 2017

A couple months too late for that! Ha
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 30, 2017

This line is a masterpiece. Good work gents!

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