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Glacier Point Apron - Left
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A Mother's Lament T 
Cow-Center Route, The T 
Cow-Left Side, The T 
Cow-Right Side, The T 
Grack - Center, The T 
Grack - Left Side, The T 
Grack Wrong T 
Grack, Marginal, The T 
Grack, Right Side, The T 
Hoppy's Favorite T 
Tightrope T 
Valley Hizeman T 

A Mother's Lament 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 25, 2014

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  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.

    Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.

    Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.

    Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.

    Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.

    Location 

    This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.

    We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.

    Protection 

    Bring stoppers and cams up to 2". The dehedral on the first three pitches eats small stuff.


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