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Glacier Point Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Mother's Lament T 
Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Apron Jacked T 
Balance Bitch T 
Balance Boy T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Coonyard Pinnacle T 
Cow-Center Route, The T 
Cow-Left Side, The T 
Cow-Right Side, The T 
Edge of Token T 
Endless War T 
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 
Garden's Edge T 
Goblet, The T,TR 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 
Goodrich to the Oasis T 
Grack - Center, The T 
Grack - Left Side, The T 
Grack Wrong T 
Grack, Marginal, The T 
Grack, Right Side, The T 
Green Dragon T 
Green Dream T 
Hall of Mirrors T 
Hoppy's Favorite T 
Lonely Dancer T 
McPherson Struts T 
Micro Maze T 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 
Mr. Natural T 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Slamdance T 
Tightrope T 
Valley Hizeman T 
Variation on a Theme T,TR 

A Mother's Lament 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Rab Carrington and Rik Reider, September 1972
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 25, 2014

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Another classic Apron Route, but not as good as Tightrope. There are two variations on the crux pitch(4). The FA party went left into a right facing dihedral/scoop(5.10c). One can also head up and right past a single bolt(5.11) to the belay, but this variation is quite runout.

Pitch 1(5.9) - climb the dihedral to a two-bolt belay. This pitch can be wet after a rain.

Pitch 2(5.7) - continue up the dihedral to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 3(5.7) - more of the same to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 4(5.10c or 5.11) - climb up and slightly left past two bolts. Either head up and left then back right(5.10c, gear) or up and right(5.11, one bolt) to a single piton anchor.

Pitch 5(5.9) - Basically no pro to a single-bolt anchor. If this bolt hasn't been replaced it is a poorly drilled 1/4" Rawl.

Pitch 6(5.10a) - if you are dumb enough to get this far, climb straight up to a bolt then traverse straight left past another bolt to another single bolt anchor.


This route is located about 50-100 feet right of the Calf in a prominent left facing dihedral.

We rapped the route, but the Reid guide indicates that their might be a direct rappel route down from the top of pitch 6. Either way, bring slings to beef up the anchors and please cut out the bad tat.


Bring stoppers and cams up to 2". The dehedral on the first three pitches eats small stuff.

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