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A Moment Of Light 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Christian Prellwitz?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,504
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Nov 1, 2014

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Yeehaw

Description 

This is another excellent addition to the Devil's Den scene, especially if you like crimpy, technical and tenuous highballs.

Start standing beneath the tall face with both hands matched on an obvious incut flake at 5 feet. Use a few small crimps to the gain the right facing feature above. Then use good footwork and lots of body tension to reach decent holds in the higher right facing feature (crux). A few more moves lead to the top and a fairly easy finish.

This is a 3 star line for aesthetics, but the rock is still a little flakey. This should clean up with more traffic, so hopefully people will get on it. A big thanks goes out to all the people that put effort into cleaning this line over the last year or so! Those efforts helped make this line a reality.

Location 

This climb is on the Dust Boulder, on the opposite side from 'Ashes To Ashes'. It climbs the the left side of the obvious tall face.

Protection 

A handful of pads and a spotter or two are ideal. The landing is fairly flat, but the problem is tall with potential for awkward falls.


Photos of A Moment Of Light Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just past the crux section on the first ascent of ...
Just past the crux section on the first ascent of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The opening moves on 'A Moment Of Light'.
The opening moves on 'A Moment Of Light'.
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and gene...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the starting hold (blue) and gene...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2016
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 1, 2014

This had been an obvious project for a while. I was always attracted to the beauty of the line, but there was a fair amount of loose rock on the wall. A number of people put effort into cleaning it up over the last year or so and they did an excellent job. Last weekend, upon seeing the current state of the climb, my interest was re-piqued and I decided to put some effort into cleaning and climbing the line. A couple sessions later I was standing on top. My understanding is that this line was still a project, but if that is incorrect, feel free to chime in with the name/grade/history of the line and I'll be happy to change it.

Thanks to Tyler, Ian and Christoph for the spotting and support.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Nov 1, 2014

Sick takedown Christian! Glad to be there.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Nov 1, 2014

Great job Christian! Fairly confident you got the FA too. I was with the original guys who cleaned it last winter but none of us got by the crux. We knew into the crux sequence was at least v6 so I'm psyched to see the rest isnt impossibly harder! We broke off a few chossy holds in our attempts including the starting holds, making them more gentle crimps thankfully. The route hasn't seen many people on it since and from all of those I know that have been on it, no one finished.

I do remember there being a sketchy hold high up in the crux which we thought may be a crucial hold so be wary when you're up there, unless different beta is used or the hold is gone already.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 1, 2014

Thanks Ian and Alec!

It might be harder than v7/8 (the people I was climbing with thought so), but I thought I would be conservative with my initial estimate. After figuring out the right beta for the crux, I sent it second try, but this is also the style of climbing that I am best at. So, it's hard to say. Could be more like v8/9. Hopefully some other people will send it and contribute some opinions. I'm happy to upgrade it if people end up feeling it's deserving of that.
By Tristan Baldwin
From: Amherst, NH
Nov 3, 2014

Christian,
I had made it up to the large sidepull with my right hand last spring, but never any higher. I was thinking about V6 to that point (it seemed like getting the left hand to it would be the crux). I never went back to finish the line. I think that this is a very proud and obvious line. Hopefully no more holds break as this is a very interesting and improbable line. Congrats on taking it to the top!
By Brett Cary
Nov 10, 2014

Hey congrats man... Hard, proud line for sure. I spent a handful of trips to pway with some friends making that climbable, glad it got sent! I was planning to go snag it tomorrow for Veterans Day, but hopefully I'll snag the second! That high left pinch/crimp at the start of the crux is super flexible, when that breaks it's going to be ridiculous. Be on the lookout for the arête to the left too. That's still awaiting some serious work but looks potentially awesome. Shoot a message if you're looking for more highballs in the area too, and def get on the universal socket... One of the best at pway. Solid send man!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 14, 2014

Brett--

Thanks so much for the cleaning effort on that climb. Lots of credit for that!

Yah, I think that crimp/pinch will stick around because it's hard to get behind it. However, if it breaks, it will still be climbable, just different. It might be worth considering reinforcing some of the holds, in order to preserve the quality of the line. I'm happy to do the work, though I won't be able to do that until the next time I'm in NH, and I never know when that is going to be.

There are certainly plenty of great lines (and highballs) left to be done in Pway, if people are willing to look around a bit. I've got plenty of lines I still haven't gotten around to cleaning yet that are outstanding and only slightly off the beaten path. I'm happy to share those with you, so feel free to get in touch if you're interested.

There are several four star double digit projects in the Devil's Den vicinity and several other spectacular lines sprinkled out there in the woods.
By Brett Cary
Dec 6, 2014

Christian,
Finally got back down there to get it. Beautiful climb man, went first go. Hope you can make it back to the area soon, found some more great prospects to get psyched on. Check out the iPhone footage. m.youtube.com/watch?v=31KbS5HF...

Felt 8ish to me, but vertical crimpers are my favorite. Hope you are crushing! Send a message when you're around.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 8, 2014

Brett--

Congrats on the send. Your beta is fairly similar to mine, though I did the sequence from the first right hand feature to the good crimp above (the crux section) a bit differently.

I wouldn't be surprised if the grade settled at v8. That seems about right for Pway. You should give it a grade suggestion and quality rating so we can start to get a consensus.

I never really know my plans this far in advance, but I won't be back in NH until late spring at the earliest, if at all. But I'll let you know if I'm headed that way. I'm always psyched to climb with people who are motivated on cleaning new stuff.
By Gavin Galloway
May 12, 2016

Such a sweet climb! I was able to do it in a couple sessions felt about v8 to me, although It wasn't my style. I used different beta throughout the climb but all the holds seem to be there still. Great job putting it up!
By Graham O.
Sep 4, 2016

Got on this today, not half as good as I thought it would climb. Painful, chossy, terrifying, dirty (at the top), and the crux bakes in the sun. Four stars for appearance, one star for the actual climb.

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