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Nez Perce Spire
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A Modern Home Environment T 
South West Buttress  T 

A Modern Home Environment 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 PG13 [details]
FA: Keith Schultz, Bruce Anderson
Season: All
Page Views: 834
Submitted By: Ralph Steel Dragon Dude on Oct 20, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Modern Home Environment

Description 

A great route in an awesome location. Some great free climbing broken by sections of quality aid. The Falcon Guide for Montana is fraught with contradictions about the route and pitch breakdowns, if you choose to use it be forewarned...
Begin on the same approach ledge as for the SW Buttress.
P1: Begin in blocky, right facing corner by a juniper bush. Climb up the broken corner to a small ledge to the right of a live tree with bail slings on it. Belay near the tree. (5.9+ PG13)
P2: Climb above tree into obvious left trending weakness (5.6) until you reach a solution pocket (#2 Camalot useful) where you can make a slabby traverse right to a left facing corner with a small tree on top. Climb around tree to the right side of the tower and up to a nice ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. This long pitch wanders a bit and double ropes can really reduce the rope drag. It could also easily be broken down into two shorter pitches. (5.10)
P3: Aid past several bolts above the belay (A hook move or easy free move might be necessary) and into a long splitter crack to large ledge. This pitch has probably gone free but Im not sure by whom. (If you've done it speak up!) (C2/5.12+?)
P4: Layback flake/crack on right side of ledge (5.9) and traverse left past a small, discontinuous right facing corner and into larger, more continuous left facing corner. Aid up corner past a few bolts at the top to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. (5.9/A2)
P5: Aid Shallow right facing corner off belay into thin seam. Follow seam past some fixed copperheads into a long continuos kinfeblade seam. Continue up seam until you reach a hanging belay below a roof. A few fixed pins, a fixed beak and some marginal cam placements are available for the belay. (A3)
P6: Aid out right under roof (thin, A3), and continue until you reach a point where it is possible to climb through the roof on solid cam and nut placements (a few fixed nuts here). Belay above roof in a small alcove on good gear. Short pitch. (A3)
P7: Free climb up blocky right-trending weakness to the right of the belay. Watch for loose rock. Use your best judgement (more than one option) to find your way through the blockyness and up to a spot where the angle eases near the top of the buttress. 5.9
Scramble to top, Hooray!
  • Please feel free to improve upon this description.

Location 

Begins on small 3rd class ledge a hundred feet or so to the right of the start for the SW Buttress near a small juniper.
The line follows a continuous, at times thin, weakness straight up the center of the South face. Stellar position!
Same decent as SW Buttress.

Protection 

A set of nuts, a double set of cams from small TCUs to #3 Camalot, 7 or so KBs, a few copperheads (in case some are blown), a hook or two, and a small cam hook may allow to skip a few pin placements.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Nez Perce
Nez Perce

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