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A Little Seduction 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tom Egan
Season: Season bird closures Feb 17 - Aug 1
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Chris Hatzai on Jul 10, 2017

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A Little Seduction

  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This four bolt beauty is unlike any other at Smith, for the wall is of polished tuff. The wall itself is completely smooth and incredibly hard to smear on.
    The climbing starts out on good holds and then you're immediately hit with a mini crux about 10' up on small holds (Stick clip suggested).. A finicky traverse left gets you to the jug for a full rest. Ride the diagonal crack system of good holds up and right while walking your feet up the small horizontal cracks.
    The crux is located between bolt 2 and 3, while riding seemingly far out right, you immediately traverse back left to clip on good holds.
    After a good shake, climb to bolt 4 on small holds and deal with a potential tough clip (helps to be taller). After bolt 4, keep climbing through the redpoint crux to the anchors.

    Location 

    Right side base of Puddy's Tower

    Protection 

    4 bolts, anchors.


    Comments on A Little Seduction Add Comment
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    By another Chad
    Jul 10, 2017

    Chris, the comment "helps to be taller" makes me wonder if the fourth bolt could have been placed in a better spot. Hopefully, first ascentionists are keeping short climbers in mind while bolting. I get that some hard clips are unavoidable, even with forethought by the FA.

    Chad

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