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A Little Piece of South Dakota

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L to R R to L Alpha
Ethical Jesture T 
Little Piece T 
Midwestern Crack T 
North Dakota T,TR 
Reds T 

A Little Piece of South Dakota Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 7,000'
Location: 39.73796, -105.35707 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,609
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2002
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This large-ish wall is just downstream from High Profile Wall and also faces West and North. The climbing is largely unremarkable, and this probably explains the rarity with which it is climbed (in 20 years of climbing in the area, I have never seen anyone on it!). However, it is home to a few moderate trad lines that tick in at 5.9 or so. These follow obvious grooves and crack systems. One face climb has been established at 5.9 as well, and it carries the LPSD moniker. I checked out LPSD in 2000 thinking it might be a good spot to develop more moderate face climbs, but the effort involved seemed too great. The rock here is granitic and fairly rough. We did a two pitch 5.8 called Reds that kicked up quite enjoyable climbing, although the bulk of the climbing seemed more like 5.6. If you are looking for an off beat day on nearly virgin stone, LPSD might be worth a visit.

Getting There 

Park as for the High Profile Wall but hike back down stream to the much larger wall. LPSD is best approached a bit uphill and from the right side.


A. North Dakota, 7, 1p, 90', gear or TR.
B. Little Piece, 8, 1p, 115', gear.
C. A Little Piece of South Dakota, 9 R, 1p, 115', bolts & gear.
D. Ethical Jesture, 9 R, 1p, 120', gear.
E. Bugsy, 9, 1p, gear.
F. Reds, 8, 1-2p, 125', gear.
G. Midwestern Crack, 6, 1-2p, 110', gear.

Climbing Season

For the Clear Creek Canyon area.

Weather station 6.0 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]

Featured Route For A Little Piece of South Dakota
Rock Climbing Photo: The route.

Ethical Jesture 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Colorado : Golden : ... : A Little Piece of South Dak...
This is the centermost route on the wall. It was bolted on the lead in the style of the South Dakota Needles, mostly for practice with that style. I did it so long ago that I can't recall the exact number of bolts or pins. Rumor has it that at least one pin fell out, so it may be even more serious now. I thought the climbing was good and intricate....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Comments on A Little Piece of South Dakota Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 16, 2015
It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.
By David Tennant
From: Denver, CO
Jul 28, 2015
Good to know, Jay, I was curious why I haven't seen many. Do you have any recommendations about the best time to find a way across the creek or better yet if there's good enough options to get across in less than ideal conditions? This rock looks really cool.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 28, 2015
I would just go in the late fall or on a warm winter day. I waded the creek right below the crag,

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