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A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 
Bullet the New Sky S 
Dial 911 S 
Discombobulated S 
Dissonance S 
Doug Reed Warmup S 
Legacy S 
Mississippi Burning S 
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Rock Lobster T 
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Silent but Deadly S 
Stolen Kisses T 
Sugar Bubbas S 

A Ketchum and Umbel Day 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ketchum and Umbel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: BrianWS on Nov 13, 2016

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Basically a direct version of Rock Lobster - this line has an independent start, joins the shallow right facing weakness of Rock Lobster until the ledge, and follows the face directly below the Stolen Kisses anchors.

Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.

This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.

Location 

Starts just to the left of Rock Lobster, about 10 feet right of the small corner system (Adam Ant) next to Stolen Kisses.

Protection 

The beginning section and shared section of Rock Lobster can be marginally protected, but there is mjnimal pro on the face above. A serious lead for certain.


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By BrianWS
Nov 14, 2016

There is a possibility that this route may actually be A Ketchum and Umbel Day, 10+R.

If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would be a 40+ foot runout on extremely cruxy terrain - K&U has an R rating, but this looks like a definite X.

If someone who has climbed K&U Day can comment, it would be helpful to sort out the potential background of this "new" line.
By Kevin Umbel
Feb 6, 2017

The route you're describing is basically Ketchum and Umbel day. It starts right of Adam Ant and left of Rock Lobster. There is gear between the ledge at mid to half height but you've got to be creative and also be on the actual line. Sounds like you may have been top roping a bit off to the right. I agree with you on the grade. Prob is more like 11b/c and could warrant the R/X in seriousness. None the less, a good line done in typical Don Ketchum style. Miss climbing with you, buddy. Thanks for the fire, it's still burning.
By BrianWS
Feb 6, 2017

Thanks for the update! Route info has been changed accordingly - please let me know if there is anything you'd like to add.

Oh, and kudos on the ballsy lead!

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