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A Kat That Grumps 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kirsten Davis & Bill Robins 1985
Page Views: 1,385
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Apr 13, 2005

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Approach this via first climbing Mexican Crack (or after rapping Hand Jive). This is two cracks right of Hand Jive (in between is a rightward diagonaling hand crack). Climb the ricey finger crack passing two bushes en route. At the second bush, traverse left to the anchors for Hand Jive to rap. One 60m barely gets you to the ground - watch the ends of your rope.


Small aliens/tcus up to #2 camalot.

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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 15, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Peter,I tried to find this climb 2 years ago. I climbed Kutkorner, and scrambled right of the chains for the rap, but couldn't find the start. How far from the base of Paraplegic Ward is the start of this climb. Is it an obvious crack? Thanks in advance.
By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
Apr 21, 2005

This route is easy to find. It is a continuous (although weird) crack system. It is the first protectable chunk of rock right of Parapalegic Ward. I just hit it by climbing Mexican and then scrambling up the low angle stuff above.
By Nathan Fisher
May 3, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

OK, I found it this time. Gritty and rotten rock galore, but somehow it all felt good on this route. A very easy to protect crack: I used a standard rack, with cams high and low, but nuts worked well in the middle. I used the smallest wired hex (BD), in a horizontal crack with a split chickenhead, and 2 more nuts in constrictions begging to be plugged with nuts.

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