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Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging Direct T,TR 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Dark T 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Random Crystals T 
Scratch the Surface T 
Shit Talk (aka Gameday) T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Son of a Wanted Man T 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unicorn Exterminator T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

A Horse Will Have To Do 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cowan and Mattson, 1984
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Johan Grahnen on Jun 25, 2011

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Somewhat misleadingly called a "sustained finger crack" in Kelman's 2003 guidebook, this route is more about technical stemming than finger locks. Climb the flake and slab up to the base of a dihedral with a tiny little crack in the back of it. Proceed up this corner on a few insecure jams and flakes/crystals for feet, and head left to a shelf when the crack pinches down. Above this tricky bit, the crack widens, first to fingers and finally to thin hands.

Location 

This is left of Putter on Lower Blair III, right of Bragging About Jesus. Looking at the latter, skirt the cliff line toward the right through boulders. Work up and right until a large, triangular flake is encountered. The left-facing dihedral with the thin crack directly above leads to the chains.

Protection 

The thinnest gear you can get your hands on. The smallest Camalot C3 is too large for protecting the crux. A few hand-sized pieces are useful for the start and finish. This has bolted anchors up top.


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By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
Jun 26, 2011

As of late June 2011, one bolt in the anchor spins a bit and the hanger is loose. Could use some tightening with a wrench. Many flakes and crystals, particularly in the initial dihedral, were on the verge of coming off.