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A Hike With Ludwig Dude 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Bob Poling, Dick Donofrio, 1970
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: Friso Schlottau on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Dave Rogers on the direct start which is quite thi...

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  • Description 

    There are a lot of routes on this beautiful slab which sort of run into each other. This one starts a few feet to the right of the right tree.... Thin face moves, head around the left of the bolt on the face to stay on the route. There is lots of fun smearing and such.


    Pretty much nonexistent. There is a new bolt (which replaces the POS that used to be there), but it is about halfway up the route. TR is highly recommended. Easiest way to set this is to hike to the obvious gully, rap down to the two bolts that are ~25m above the ground. Then re-set your rope.

    Addendum: you can get a medium wire & RP ~15-18 feet up below the white dike if you start from the right, but there is a crux move near the ground without pro.

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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 1, 2001

    I was able to get a TCU or something in, maybe 25 feet below the bolt. I say PG.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 27, 2002
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Pro is not non-existent. You can place several locker small nuts that should hold a long sliding fall along the way. The only really scary runout on the cliff is the one on the 5.10 to the right ("Crack Tack"). The rest have enough pro to keep them "s" instead of VS. You'd get cheese-grated, but a fall from these should not be career-ending.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 24, 2004

    If you start left of the tree, you can get a blue (smallest) Ballnut in the pin scar in the small overlap. This Ballnut looks good and survived a bounce test. Above this is very good gear, as Tony says. But, we led this by climbing a ways up the 5.6 variation a couple feet further left, placing gear, and then having a diagonal top rope for the crux moves. If you start from right of the tree, not only is there no gear, as stated by Friso above, but it looks a lot harder, and it's a lot further to the bolt, since the ground slants down and right.
    By Ken Heiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 25, 2004
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I agree with Tony that this route is adequately protected as the runout is protected by a super bomber piece. I also used the #1 Ballnut in the overlap to protect the crux off the ground the placement looks really good, and I think it would hold a fall. Really fun slab route.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 4, 2013

    If you're top roping this line, an awesome start is to go directly up the white rock below the bolt. Awesome edges that make a very hard looking slab climb pretty moderately. Super fun, probably 10a!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 15, 2015
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

    Furthermore, there is also a bomb-proof #1 Camalot placement (or I presume #2.5 Friend, but maybe a #2) in a small, horizontal "pocket" toward the top if you can find that exact spot. Since the climbing is slightly nebulous, you may or may not find this. I did, but my partner at first did not until taking a second lap on the climb.

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