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Southern Groomsman
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A Gentleman's Line T 

A Gentleman's Line 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c A1 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c A1 R [details]
FA: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett & Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: All but the hot summer
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Nov 2, 2015

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Why is my belayer standing underneath me as I cran...

Description 

The crack protects well and would go free around the high 11s. The moves out of the crack and on to the ledge are much more problematic. Moving left on the ledge gets you to another crack system that leads to the cap rock. A medium RP covers the last moves to the summit.

Location 

See Sat. Photo.

Protection 

Active: BD # 1s X 3, # 2s X 2, #3s X 4, # 5s X 2, # 6 X 1 and one Valley Giant (optional). Also, the more BD # 3s you have, the better you will feel.

Passive: Lost Arrows (long thin) X 2,
Knife Blades long X 2, and a full set of RPs..

Anchor: Two bolts with a short climbing rope attached to two rap biners.

Rope: One 60 will do it.


Photos of A Gentleman's Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Gentleman's Line Topo
BETA PHOTO: A Gentleman's Line Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: The summit smile! Roy Suggett on the top.
The summit smile! Roy Suggett on the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy Suggett at the disintegrating ledge/pinnacle.
Roy Suggett at the disintegrating ledge/pinnacle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crusher taking over where the nailing begins
Crusher taking over where the nailing begins

Comments on A Gentleman's Line Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Nov 12, 2015

Crusher and I agreed that this line could go free and be great. The sweet crack ends in soft rock and though is takes gear (BD 4s and larger) the placement(s) would not inspire you. So if anybody wants the FFA you might well want to place a 1/2" X 4" bolt on the face just above the cracks high point prior to starting the crux traverse. This would be just six feet of moving left where you can get some more cams (BD # 2,3, and 4) in better rock. It would be a proud accent!