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Disappearing Devil
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A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Andrew Parnas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: aparnas on Nov 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: A Full Deck On The Jack Of Hearts

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Named as a reminder of a bad fall I witnessed on the Bridger Jacks. Wear your helmets, folks.

Pitches 1 and 2: Same as for Sideways Sandworm. Once you are on the belay ledge above pitch 2, set up as though you were going to do the third, traversing pitch of Sideways Sandworm.

Pitch 3: Move left from the belay, but do not cross the chimney. Move up, either using the chimney (unprotected, muddy, and too wide to squeeze, too narrow to stem) or the hands - wide hands crack system just right of the chimney that climbs the tall detached block standing in the corner. The block appears stable, but a fall on gear placed in the crack is not advised, and is the reason for the 'R' rating. Follow the corner to the top with mostly hands, some thin hands, some wide hands, and a bit of fingers. (5.10 R)

The corner tops out immediately below a bolted rap station. Two raps to the ground using one 70 meter rope.

Location 

Same as for Sideways Sandworm.

Protection 

Singles BD 0.3 - 0.75, Doubles BD 1 - 3, Singles BD 4 - 5


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