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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Hesitantly Decisive T 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

A Fly in the Ointment 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 1/12/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,445
Submitted By: Greg Hand on Jan 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Near the anchor of route. The upper crack takes gr...

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  • Description 

    Layback past 3 bolts (crux) to a big bucket. Place a small cam to protect a move to a big ledge. Follow the final crack of Tool King to anchors.

    The name was inspired by a recent trip to Australia. I got very good at the Australian Salute, not to mention spitting them out.

    Location 

    Begin just right of Tool King.

    Protection 

    3 bolts plus finger size to 1 1/4" cams.


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    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 19, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    A pumpy and committing route. We toproped the line after leading Tool King. The moves past the three bolts are strenuous liebacking and it looked difficult to let go to make the third clip. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader, better to toprope this line.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Feb 3, 2009
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I led this today, the second clip was the most difficult to make. After that it was pretty juggy, but I didn't bring enough finger-sized cams so I ended up running it out a bit. Kind of dirty and there is some bird crap but a route worth trying if you're in the area.
    By Climberordinaire
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 26, 2009
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Winter has not been kind to this climb. The layback flake between the 1st and 2nd bolt is now mostly gone, pulled off yesterday afternoon (5/25/09). There are still edges and some flake to lay off of but now a mid to hard 10.
    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 2, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Climbed this today, so no prior experience with the liebacks, and I'm no powerhouse at 52. I believe more pieces will break off, but don't think it will change the grade much at 10a. Didn't see the need for any larger than a .75 camalot. Nice climb!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 16, 2010
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    My partner broke bt bottom hold, then cleaned it up- more broke away while standing on it. I cleaned it more, then more shed while standing on it. More bound to come with time- watch the feet while clipping bolt #2. The rest of the route is more solid.
    By Sarah Meiser
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Mar 28, 2011

    Entire route seems solid now, looks like everything that could break off did already. Fun, pumpy climb.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 3, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Fun, pumpy climb that offers quite the variety of climbing styles. Clips weren't bad, do this climb!

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