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A Dream of White Dragons
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in (3) Long Lane
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A Dream of White Dragons T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dragonfly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dragonslayer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Family S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fear Only Fear Itself S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fireman's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Golden Gate Roof T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Golden Gate Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heping S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inconceivable S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Lane Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Long Lane Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Plausibanana T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Plausible S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pocket Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pocket Overhang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rated G S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Reach for the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Renai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rhino Dihedral S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sky Ladder Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skyhook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Upon A Painted Ocean T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Virtues On A Street Sign S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Xinyi S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Zhongxiao S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 641 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Oct 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
The crux is getting off the ground. Place a piece as high as you can reach, then high-step and lieback-jam to establish yourself in the crack. Follow this semi-sustained bit, trying not to cheat when it turns into a bit of a rampy dihedral. Then you're on a ledge big enough to sleep a small army. Continue up towards the orange face split by an obvious, slightly overhanging crack. Using face holds and jams, send this short bit of sweetness until you're below the belay ledge. Pop some gear, mantel up (5.8), and you're done.
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