Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cut Above T,TR 
Android Tilt T 
As We Liked It T 
Bat, The T 
Between the Cracks T 
Blackout T 
Born Under Punches T 
Bushwack Crack T 
Chock Suey T 
Chockstone T 
Cornerstone TR 
Fade To Black T 
Fading Light T 
Friends in High Places T 
Ice Nine T 
Jericho T 
Joke Crack to Superstone T 
Knight's Move T 
Laughing at the Moon T 
Ministry of Fear T,TR 
Modern Defense T 
Muscular Dystrophy T 
Prince of Darkness T 
Purple Haze T 
Red House T 
S&M T 
Sirens of Titan T 
Speakeasy T 
Superstone T 
Sylvia's Bush T 
Tilt Right T 
Whiplash T 

A Cut Above 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: P. Ament & C Griffith, (originally with 1 bolt)
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbs just right of the shadow of the tree.

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From Ken Trout: Pat Ament and Christian Griffith made a movie about this route (available @ AAC Library). It had one bolt and was led that way. Later, someone chopped the route, leaving it to remain as a toprope. Rossiter documented the line such, and as such it has remained.


The holds on this route are small and some are savagely sharp. A Cut Above? Yeah, I got several cut above the first knuckle. I tried this in a post-desert-trip skin-peeling state and paid dearly. After 1/2 tries I went away with 1/2 dozen sliced, oozing fingers and without a clean TR. My partner (Peter Spindloe) got it, however. Thick finger pads are required.

There is no protection on this 25' line, but the crux is done with your feet between 5-10 feet off of the ground. After that the climbing is easier.

About 15-20 feet right of the start of the first pitch of Muscular Dystrophy, set a TR (or crash pads) below the center of a vertical face with small holds. The area is accessible from a scramble on the right and a large pine tree provides a place for the TR anchor. Work your way up on difficult holds to the tree.

Protection 

There isn't any. Still, the route's crux is reasonably close to the ground and the landing is flat. This is originally a T.R., but would make a reasonable boulder problem with a few crash pads, or a 'headpoint' after [rehearsal].


Comments on A Cut Above Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 21, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought this was a fun little problem. I did it on tr, but it would be more fun with some crash pads and a spotter. Crux moves are down low, which would make the top out a little easier on the head. Impossible looking face, until I started climbng and holds started to magically appear.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 21, 2009

Interesting bug in the consensus rating algorithm. V grades and 5.whatever grades don't seem to mix. The folks with who write up these algorithms are working on this one.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Nov 24, 2009

There is no easy fix for this one. I've deleted the V5 rating. Please stick with 5.x ratings for this route.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I tried to change my rating to 5.x, but the drop down menu only provides V grades to choose from.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Nov 26, 2009

Fixed. I think there was some import bugs for this route from long ago.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
5 days ago

No! - not even - on the history. Pat Ament and Christian Griffith made a movie about this route (available @ AAC Library). It had one bolt and was led that way. Later, some all-knowing newbie chopped a Pat Ament Route. Used to be very worthwhile problem.

Not Tony's error! For some unknown reason Rossiter documents this as a top rope.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
5 days ago

Ken,
Thanks for the info. The route description has been amended to include your notes, paraphrased slightly for tone. If that seems adequate, you can take or leave your comment, as you please, but I thought it best to put that in the description, not just comments below.