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A-Climb-A-Tize T 
Blues Streak S 
Ed's Route T 
Gone With the Wind T 
Green Eggs and Ham T 
Guillotine S 
Hero Maker S 
Huck's Fin  T 
Lustography S 
Novacain T 
Shinangwav T,S 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: John Rogers, Ryan Neilson, summer 08
Season: South facing
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Boissal on Aug 27, 2011

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  • Book Cliffs is used by the Boy Scouts; please avoid Camp Steiner and be courteous.
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • What's this thing like? 

    An attractive looking crack splitting a prow and leading to a sweet-looking face? Sign me up you say!

    Well, no so fast. Once you get about 20' up you'll realize the sweet hand jams you could see from the ground are a bit rattly due to the crack being packed full of enough loose blocks to obliterate your belayer/dog/6-pack. Or maybe the crack is formed by loose blocks...
    Either way, place solid gear below the sharp flakes and unstable blocks and punch it on face holds outside of the crack to gain a small roof. Things settle a bit there with the occasional piece of wobbly choss but mostly fun thin moves on horizontals. The gear feels a bit spaced out an the upper 40' easily redeem the scary chossfest encountered down low. I'm still giving it a PG rating, you could easily pick the wrong hold and catch some air.

    Where's this pile at? 

    A-Climb-A-Tize climbs the broad arete about 10' left of the prominent crack Novacain. Look for a jagged crack 20' up.

    What do I need to not die? 

    A single set of cams from super tiny (those thin horizontals gobble small cams) to a #3. Medium nuts, a helmet for your belayer. Optional pry bar if you want to make noise.

    No anchor on top but solid nuts can be used for directionals to get to the anchors of Green Eggs and Ham (2 bolts). Walk off or leave gear to rap and retrieve it from the top.

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