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Vertigo T 

A Clean Getaway 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch, belayed by Luke Ross, Lee Terveen, Jack Torness (Ground-up) 7/14
Page Views: 1,340
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 20, 2014

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Teuber finishing up the airy stem. Andrew Burr pho...

Description 

This hidden treasure climbs the bomber finger/hands crack system right between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Currently, this is the only other route that summits Vertigo. Very unique with wild and WIDE stemming and a transition from one formation to the other. I don't believe this has ever been climbed before, surprisingly. A must-do!!

1) 5.7 70'
Start in either gully and take the easiest path up to the chockstone belay in the saddle between Vertigo and Outer. Natural belay.

2) 5.11+ 130'
Two options to start. On Outer Outlet, the left crack climbs and protects better right away but has a thin traverse right to join the main line. The direct start over the roof has decking potential before you can get a second piece of gear in. Choose wisely ;). Continue to link the vertical slashes, while getting excellent gear. Just when the crack flares and gear becomes meager begin the groin stretching. Stem for about 15' up and then to the North to find another perfect crack on Vertigo that will take you to the top.

Location 

Route climbs right in the center of the narrow passage between Outer Outlet and Vertigo. Either rap back down the route (80m rope), or rap the original Vertigo route (one 70m rope??).

Protection 

Double rack to BD#2 & single #3 (to protect beginning roof)
Nuts
Long slings


Photos of A Clean Getaway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony and I on CG. Photo taken by traveling CO frie...
Tony and I on CG. Photo taken by traveling CO frie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jack, right before the stem
Jack, right before the stem

Comments on A Clean Getaway Add Comment
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By t.schwartz
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Mega Classic!
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 29, 2014

I believe Kim Carrigan and Steve Levin might have climbed this line in the summer of 1980. Not certain but I do remember they were working on it. Maybe check in the Blue Book. Kevin Bein worked this line a bit to.
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 29, 2014

Never saw anything in the Blue Book. Except for the 5.12- OW crack that Bein TR-ed. Right next to this line but seperate. Maybe that's what your thinking of?
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 30, 2014

Chris, You may well be correct on this. I just remember Kevin Bein talking about a line in the notch between Vertigo and Outer Outlet that would go in without bolts.
By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

One of the wildest pitches I've ever climbed!

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