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A Change Is Gonna Come S,TR 
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A Change Is Gonna Come 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Lusk, Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: A.P.T. on May 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Sharon Legg, Working the lower crux moves.


This climb is right of (Exposure In The Making) and can be toproped from the same anchors.

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By Daniel Cohn
Sep 1, 2007

Awesome steep start. The end is a bit different... The name is very appropriate.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 3, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

the climbing isn't bad but the bolt placement on this one (ie 5 feet away from where you're doing the moves) makes you waste time and energy wondering if you're going the right way and creates bad swinging fall potential.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 4, 2008

Could be that it was done ground up or the rock sounded hollow when they tapped it with the hammer prior to drilling. Or it could be they F....d up the bolt placement.
By jonathan horst
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

hmm, i zigged and zagged a bit but never got more than 5' away from the bolts...kept it about 10d.
By Chris Horton
From: Encampment, WY
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Going straight up the bolt line puts this thing in the mid-11 range. The good stuff is about 4-5 feet right of it.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

the offending bolt has been replaced with a new 3/8" stainless steel bolt. the new placement is approximately 8" right and 4" down from where the old one was, making it a much easier clip for a person my size (i'm 5'10" with an ape index of 0 or less).

it may still be a difficult clip for a short person but i couldn't be 100% sure about the rock quality further right so i had to settle. even so, the route is much improved now that the crux is the actual climbing instead of struggling to clip a bolt.

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