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Wrinkles in Time T 

A Brief History of Time 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, 1997
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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Brian on the fun crack/flake.

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Just down the gully from Gully Washer locate a hand crack in a right-facing flake. Climb the crack as it fades over a steep face...where it curves right and fades, climb up and left past a bolt (first crux) on steep slab to a flared crack...follow crack up until you see 2 bolts on slab to the right and traverse to the steep, finger crack (might want to extend these cuz of the rope drag and zig-zag nature of the climb below the crack)...crank up this perfect finger crack, thru bulge (crux) and up to easier terrain and a chain anchor...lower 80 feet to the ground.


Stoppers and small to medium cams, 3 bolts protect a blank face...chain anchor.

Photos of A Brief History of Time Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Victor just finishing the traverse.
Victor just finishing the traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the...
Pebby Johns climbing the easy but fun flake at the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before clipping the first bolt.
Just before clipping the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: A Brief History of Time.  Climb the big flake, pla...
BETA PHOTO: A Brief History of Time. Climb the big flake, pla...

Comments on A Brief History of Time Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 14, 2016
By Mark Ferguson
Jun 21, 2001

This climb is fun and worth doing but it has to be the easiest 5.9 I have ever done. To protect before and after the bolts. All you need is a few medium cams and a blue TCU
By Darin Lang
Jun 22, 2001

If "easy" means "one move wonder", I would agree. The crux move (or two) is solid 9, though.
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Truly a one move wonder, but a decent climb. I thought the bottom was better than the crux, which I found tricky but not exquisite. Still, it was a fun problem, that I'm sure I'll climb again someday. The nut placement through the crux moves is so gorgeous, it almost makes the climb worthy just to place that nut!
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

I don't find this climb to be a one-move wonder. After some easy crack climbing, you step left onto a slab and make some delicate moves up, with an airy traverse right to an insecure stance below a finger crack. Place some great wired nuts and fire the crux moves up the crack. Easier climbing leads to the belay. Good rock, good variety, airy moves: two stars in my book.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2002

Fun, airy climbing, but not a Dream Canyon ultra-classic.
By DavidHH
From: Parker, Colorado
Jul 15, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I really thought this route was pretty fun. 2 cruxes for me: the first was clipping the first bolt from an awkward stance, then second was getting established in the crack. I protected the finger crack crux with a red Alien. Enjoy!
By Craig Quincy
Jul 26, 2007

There's a new bolted route just right of this. 5.10 or so taking the bulge via stemming in the scoop on the right. Fun.
By David Hous
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011

Fun route with mixed bolts and gear. We toproped a variation that starts between this and Timeless, goes up the slab to the roof, reach up to the arete and step over the roof at perhaps 5.8+, continue up the arete until you meet up with History, step left and go up the black dish a few feet left of the crux crack of History at maybe 5.10-. This could be bolted as another route but would be a bit of a squeeze job. The logical thing would be for History to finish staight up on the black scoop with one new bolt and the new route could take over History's crack finish. BTW I found the crux of History to be the slabby step left at the first bolt rather than the upper crack but that may speak more to my weaknesses than the route!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This has 3 bolts, but the D'Antonio guide lists the route as only having 2 bolts.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 23, 2016

Dale Haas and I bolted the direct finish to this route. At the third bolt, instead of traversing right into the hand crack go straight up past two bolts to a new two bolt anchor with rings for rappel. The climbing is in the 5.9+/5.10- range.
By Mason Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a great climb minus the moss on the top slab. With some more traffic, I'd give this three stars. For now, two stars seems right.

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