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A Boy And His Dog 

Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 9'
Original:  Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 261
Submitted By: Jake Perry on Nov 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Another angle, there's lots of holds on this probl...

Description 

This is a fun route that has crimps, slopers, and a little bit of compression too (and pinches, although you don't need to pinch them). It's a great fun little climb that's right along the short cut from the fire road to the lower slabs.

The regular line is a sit start, although you could also do a further sit start which feels about v5 and a stand which feels about v2.

Sit start on a good low left hold, and right hand on a good edge. Bump, slap, crimp, and squeeze your way up to the top. There's a good juggy sloper at the top to help with the funky topout. The downclimb is super obvious and you'll be looking straight at it when you top out. Now go do it again!

Location 

From the fire road you'll see a massive boulder with a huge crack in it. This is the Mir Boulder, there's a trail that follows to the right side of this boulder, follow that. This climb is located maybe 40 feet further down the trail than Ethnic Cleansing. When you see a diamond shaped boulder stacked on top of another boulder, you'll know you're there.

Protection 

One well placed pad is fine, the landing is pretty good.


Photos of A Boy And His Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There's many ways to start this problem. The origi...
BETA PHOTO: There's many ways to start this problem. The origi...

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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 1, 2015

I wasn't too sure of the grade on this one, I hope I'm not too far off. It took me a while to clean it, but now that it's clean hopefully more people will get on it. It's really fun and definitely worth doing.

Probably the last time anyone got on this was my friends and I in the spring, we didn't clean it at all then though, so I'm not sure when the last time it was really cleaned well.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 3, 2015
rating: V3+ 6A+

I climbed this route yesterday, I started in a similar position to the blue line in your photo, except that my left hand was on the right hand you have labeled and my right was on the big sloper. This way felt v3+ish to me, a cool climb for sure.

A couple thoughts on the climb, The top could use a bit more scrubbing to promote quick drying holds. Also this start holds are not the most obvious which detracts a little from the line. However it does climb well and I look forward to going back and trying the low start and starting as you started
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 4, 2015

Honestly, the start holds I marked out are just a suggestion. It's a sit start climb, so as long as you start sitting, it'll retain the grade I think. Unless you can reach the holds for the green stand start while sitting. There's a lot of holds on this climb, and most of them are usable, so it'll probably just come down to personal preference for where to start; this is another one of those climbs that could be done a million different ways. I just want people to try and know about this fun problem.

Nice to know that the grade seems right too, I'll have to try it the way you started too to see how that feels. The low start(red) is pretty rough, again it doesn't matter too much where you start, except maybe for left hand on that left start hold. Moving the left hand up from there to the next hold is a hard move, feels a lot like the first move on Throng, but maybe a tad harder. I still have to go back and do it. The right hand hold I marked out is just the one that felt the best to me.

I tried cleaning the top too, the only hold I couldn't really reach well is that long sloper on the right that you make a big slap move to, so I think there's still some dirt in there.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Nov 6, 2015
rating: V2 5+

Did this tonight, not a bad climb at all, I started as per the blue holds, which seemed like the most logical starting position. Starting on the red marked holds you'd have to be almost laying on the ground. The fine grained sidepull/sloper hold mid-route is very cool.

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