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A Boy and His Arête T 
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Groove, The T 
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A Boy and His Arête 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Eric Gable & Petch Pietrolungo, 1996
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Ryan Nevius on Sep 2, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

An adventure climb, for sure. Climb the sustained, sometimes-clumbly face just to the right of the arête. Keep your head on when pulling on hollow flakes. At the first big roof, traverse to the left side of the arête (into the left-facing corner). Get a few good jams before traversing back right onto the face at a prominent horn on the arête. Clip a bolt and climb up the face on 5.6R territory before reaching a second roof. Again, traverse left over the arête and onto a slightly overhung face for a few moves (really, only a few, don't try climbing up the overhung face too far), at which point you swing BACK onto the face and make some easy moves to the chains.

Rap (barely, with rope stretch) with a 70m rope, or (probably a better idea) with two ropes.

Location 

Starts on the right side of a 15' wide recess (Beer Can Alley), on the left side of Lower Buttress.

Protection 

6 draws, singles from .5" to 2", long slings to keep the rope running smoothly.


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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jul 9, 2013

So I came to Lower Buttress the other day to try some routes at LL for the first time, and while waiting for some parties to finish the classics decided to try A Boy and His Arete. This thing is definitely not 10d and probably best not to call a sport route. A few rock scars indicated that crucial holds may have broken and the 10-15 foot spacing of bolts and distance to the first bolt kept it spicy. I managed to get up about 5 or 6 bolts before deciding to lower. Just a heads up to anyone thinking there's a moderate sport route here...
By Salamanizer suchoski
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 9, 2013

This route is a turd. Sorry, there I said it... but it's true. TURD!!!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 13, 2013

Ha ha! I always liked this one. Often chalk free.
By Eric Gabel
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sounds like somebody had a bad day. Only heard positive feedback on this route until now Chad.Too bad. It was done ground up over three years. If you are on crumbly holds out right, you should go back left to the arête, were the route goes(on the arête). I hope every one else enjoys this route. Good moves, good lead, in my opinion. There is a second pitch too if it's not to obscure for you? Probably not for the faint of heart though. Glad you liked it caught inside.

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