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4. Main Slab
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A Bit Too Short T 
Dharma Initiative, The T 
Direct T 
Eko Slab T 
keystoned T 
Lost in the Sun  T 
Past Dead Ending's.  T 
Rookie Ridge (incomplete) T 

A Bit Too Short 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 403
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P1

Description 

A Bit Too Short (5.6 / 5.7) climbs the slab between "Direct" and "Dharma Initiative". It STARTs about 100 ft up-gully of Direct. (See Topo/Photo posted to "Main Slab")

Protection 

usual rack


Photos of A Bit Too Short Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short:  P7 (shared with Direct)
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P7 (shared with Direct)
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: P6
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P6
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: P5
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P5
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: P4
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P4
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: P3
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P3
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: P2
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: P2
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: Approach the start by scrambling ...
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: Approach the start by scrambling ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: Upper part of P7 (shared with Dir...
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: Upper part of P7 (shared with Dir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vertical panorama - view from P? of  ?slabs? acros...
Vertical panorama - view from P? of ?slabs? acros...
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: Pwet
BETA PHOTO: A Bit Too Short: Pwet
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor on P?
Anchor on P?
Rock Climbing Photo: A Bit Too Short: PRon
A Bit Too Short: PRon
Rock Climbing Photo: The extremely descriptive guidebook we used.
The extremely descriptive guidebook we used.
Rock Climbing Photo: superbeta for P1, in case you need it
BETA PHOTO: superbeta for P1, in case you need it
Rock Climbing Photo: View down from the start of P1
BETA PHOTO: View down from the start of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach from gully thing. almost to the start...
BETA PHOTO: Approach from gully thing. almost to the start...

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By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Aug 14, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

FA: July 2007 - Chuck Woodman & Jack Dorsey

Location: From base of the cliff, scramble up and right to a small ledge (~75’). Leave you bag, shoes etc at the base as it’s easier to rappel back down to the base. The route starts under a bolt in the dark rock.

P1: Climb dark rock passing four bolts to anchor, located just above the small tree ledge. Just left of the arête/buttress after the first bolt you can find a small crack to place a small cam. Otherwise the distance to the second bolt is little far. The second half is steeper slab with some thin features and has some rotten rock here and there. The rest of the route is good quality though. 5.6 190’

P2: Easier slab to anchor, passing two bolts. 5.3 160’

P3: Pass a bush to a steeper section with a vertical crack. Then less steep slab to anchor passing a couple of bolts. 5.5 150’

P4: More easy slab passing an overlap to anchor. 5.2 120’

P5: Climb steep left facing corner / flake passing a pin. Continue on slab passing a bolt to anchor just before bigger overlap. 5.4 170’

P6: Mantle the overlap and easier slab, passing a bolt, to a single bolt anchor. 5.4 ~180’

P7: Go up and traverse left over the weakness and up the slab to final anchor at a nice ledge (shared with Direct). 5.3 ~150’

Protection: Mostly bolted with occasional gear placement. Bring draws and a light rack.

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