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The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
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A Big Tease  S 
A Little Tease S 
Closed Project S 
Entry Fee  S 
Good Die Young, The S 
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 
Hank Spire, The S 
Hanky Panky S 
Sweet as Hank S 
Tommy TwoTone S 

A Big Tease  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hatzai
New Route: Yes
Season: Golden eagle closure Feb 17 - Aug 1
Page Views: 1,599
Submitted By: Chris Hatzai on Oct 24, 2015

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Last bolt on The Big Tease. This route is killer. ...

  • February 1st to August 1st: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • A Big Tease 

    A Big Tease is located at the center of The Hank Collins Memorial Wall to the right side base of The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This route is a full 30 meter pitch with a variety of climbing styles and sections. The full 100' pitch offers a little bit of everything for everyone. Featuring a bouldery start, jugs, crack, roof, traversing, crimps, face climbing, spaced bolts and airy falls this climb is sure to please.

    The climb starts out on good holds clipping perm-bolt 1. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a super jug on a ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
    Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower route being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.

    9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

    If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.


    Photos of A Big Tease Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on his way to the chains
    Chris on his way to the chains
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steven Dimmit onsiting. Crusher.
    Steven Dimmit onsiting. Crusher.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas resting at the sofa jug.
    Lukas resting at the sofa jug.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas in the traverse.
    Lukas in the traverse.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas under the roof.
    Lukas under the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas clearing the roof.
    Lukas clearing the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas under the roof.
    Lukas under the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas under the roof.
    Lukas under the roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh styling the start of the traverse
    Josh styling the start of the traverse
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh setting up for the crux
    Josh setting up for the crux
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh clearing the roof on a redpoint
    Josh clearing the roof on a redpoint
    Rock Climbing Photo: A Big Tease
    BETA PHOTO: A Big Tease
    Rock Climbing Photo: A Big Tease, line containing the fixed draws
    A Big Tease, line containing the fixed draws
    Rock Climbing Photo: Roof section, A Big Tease
    Roof section, A Big Tease
    Rock Climbing Photo: Resting at the sofa jug.
    Resting at the sofa jug.

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