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> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (v) Monument Area
> (7) The Monument
> Hank Collins Memorial…
A Big Tease
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.9 from 36
votes
Routes in The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
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A Big Tease S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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A Little Tease S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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All Dogs Go To Heaven S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Animal Magnetism S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Entry Fee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Die Young, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hank Collins Memorial Route S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hank Spire, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hanky Panky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Scruff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sweet as Hank S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Teasing Hank S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tommy TwoTone S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Chris Hatzai |
| Page Views: | 5,781 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Oct 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
A Big Tease
A Big Tease is located at the center of The Hank Collins Memorial Wall to the right side base of The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This route is a full 30 meter pitch with a variety of climbing styles and sections. The full 100' pitch offers a little bit of everything for everyone. Featuring a bouldery start, jugs, crack, roof, traversing, crimps, face climbing, spaced bolts and airy falls this climb is sure to please.
The climb starts out on good holds. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a jug on a big ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower path being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.
10 bolts, 3 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors
If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.
The climb starts out on good holds. After clipping bolt 2, you are met with a bouldery section through the worst rock on the route. Pull through the bouldery section and climb on good holds up to bolt 4 and rest at a jug on a big ledge. After you clip bolt 5, start to work your way up a fine crack with conveniently placed hand holds. This is where the real climbing begins.
Clip perma-bolt 6 and slap and layback your way through the roof section. Rest at the love seat sized detached flake just above the roof and prepare to traverse a crack system leading to the left. Start making the traverse, having a high and low option to climb (the lower path being harder). Clip bolts 8 and 9 working your way left and up to a good rest. After clipping bolt 10, work up and right and prepare for the crux of the route. Climb through the crux on ok crimps, clip perma-bolt 11 and work your way up to the next ledge. Ride the continuing finger crack clipping bolts 12 and 13 to the fixed anchors.
10 bolts, 3 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors
If this route is being back cleaned while lowering, it helps to use the long fixed draws as directionals.
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