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A Big Black Deck S 
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Entertainment Tonight S 
Moral Ambiguity S 
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Reverse Cowgirl S 
Spontaneous Conga Line S 
Thornbush Crack  T 
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With a Bullet S 

A Big Black Deck 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen - 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on May 14, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

This climb goes and goes.

Climb low angle rock with interesting moves that meander slightly left on "the Deck" and culminate with the use of an awesome undercling prior to the last bit of slab on your way to the chains.

Location 

Just right of "Moral Ambiguity"

Protection 

9 bolts to chain anchors.


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By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson
May 21, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This is probably 5.7 by old school lemmon standards. The underling move is well supported by great feet and your bolt is at your waist. An enjoyable climb whatever you decide to rate it.
By Cliff G.
Sep 25, 2016

Found a 'biner at the base of this route (Big Black Deck) on Thursday, Sep 22. Describe it and I'll get it back to you.

Cliff
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 21, 2016

Pretty big jog to the left on a ledge.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 21, 2016

I wouldn't have put in the low anchors but it was nice you did. This gives the 5.7 climbers another route to lead. If you climb 5.9 then continue up the extension as one pitch.
By Michael Poston
Dec 3, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I've taken beginners here multiple times now and it is a solid fun route for newbies or a good warm up. For newbies just watch for Z-clips since this thing is like super bolted. The minor crux part could lead to a fall onto a shelf (which someone did) but its not too bad. You can easily reach the anchors for Moral Ambiguity to set up an easy TR. The second pitch Bigger Blacker Deck allows for a decent multi-pitch practice spot or just do as a single. Topping out is fun tho a little exposed. Can hike off or rap just bring a couple slings. I did have my rope get stuck after rapping so be aware of that possible pain in the ass.
By Iain Macdonald
Jun 13, 2017

Fun easy stuff

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