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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: T. Perkins, R. Perkins, 1992
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jul 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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This is a fun route to the left of Horny for You. Start by gaining a bolt on the arete; the crux is moving past that bolt to get a horn on the arete. Once you're on the ledge above the arete, climb the right-facing corner to the top. The climbing eases off after the initial arete but is still fun. It's hard to see from the ground but solid gear is available throughout the pitch.


This route is to the left of Horny for You. Look for a chimney with dark rock to the left of that route. This route starts on the arete just to the left of that chimney. There is a bolt about ten feet up the arete.


There are two bolts on the route (one at the start and one at the end before the anchor). I used gear from a green Alien to #1 Camalot in between. There's a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 20, 2012

Note - the anchor bolts on this are only about 2" apart and completed with a rather flimsy chain. Interesting stone though for granite.

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