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99 Problems 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ed Strang, Equipped by Timy Fairfeild
Season: Winter
Page Views: 657
Submitted By: Ed Strang on Mar 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: 99 Problems

Description 

Start on the ledge below the Bat Cave. Climb to the right of the black streak but to the left of the big flake. Follow the line of bolts through some fantastic face climbing and a thin crux. Finish at the first anchor.

Location 

To the right of the Cave

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of 99 Problems Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed Strang starting the powerful  crux down low dur...
Ed Strang starting the powerful crux down low dur...

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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 17, 2015

Fun route with a thin face climbing crux. Crux section is short, but the climbing above is fun and thought provoking. With some long draws we also started off the higher belay platform.
By DaveT
From: Albuquerque
Mar 30, 2015

And the rock is solid. Felt like 12c or 12d with a long reach move, might be harder if you're short!
By benjamin hanna
From: Santa Fe New Mexico
Dec 27, 2016

By far the worst climb in the cave, every hold is 100% manufactured.
The extention is much better though and worth the glue fest below.
By Tim Lutz
Mar 17, 2017

so is it better to have friable holds or glue? either way it gets 2 stars!!!

seems up for debate.... so confuse-ed

are the terraces considered 'manufacturing'?

my friends and I are considering a trip here from the Front Strange, but are hearing conflicting reports. People seem to hate the glue, but don't seem to mind 'sending' on it and using the terraces to belay? Is this cognitive dissonance a New Mexican thing?
By Rich Strang
From: Santa Fe, NM
Mar 17, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

People should just chill out!! Only a few cave routes out of the 75+ routes in the area have glue. Of the 25 or so routes in the cave only about 5 have "some" glue on then! Its not every hold(upper old man and the sika is bad though) and unfortunitly the hold reinforcement was done with poor craftsmanship! If these routes were in Rifle, the glue would be covered over with a ton of chalk and no one would know the difference. The terraces aren't much different from Maple either! Ben exaggerates a bit. This one particular route has 3 or 4 tiny crimps glued over(very ugly but not worth breaking it off) too bad it hasn't been climbed enough to turn them white. Upper part is glueless.
JUST GO CLIMBING. No one is glueing there anymore - stop whinning and climb some routes

Hope I didn't start the debate again!!
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 3, 2017

Dont be offended Rich, this Tim Putz is a troll. He likes to use big words in his posts but has no idea how to use them in proper context. He is just trying to get a rise out of you, but never has anything of value to add to any discussion. I wish the administrators would crack down on trolling like this, it would greatly improve the quality of the site.
By Tim Lutz
Oct 4, 2017

Aaron,

Is making fun of my name 'adding to the discussion' or are you yourself trying out trolling? FWIW, making fun of names isn't even level one trolling. sad.

My comments upthread are based in the confusing data on this area. Why climb the route if the glue burns your fingers? benjamin seems strong enough to not have to bother with a 12d start to develop harder second pitch. Sounds like the choss was glued to access the solid band above.

There appears to be plenty of rock here, why not develop that? Seems hypocritical, or is there really not enough rock in the state that the purists are forced to climb the glue to access the solid glory hard line, then post their resentment online?

Does this live up to your standards of 'adding to the discussion' or am I still just a troll?
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Oct 5, 2017

"Tim", use your real name if you have something to say. Who are you? What have you done? Seems hypocritical to me...

Ben's a good kid and a great climber; Aaron, Rich, Ed, and Timy have done a lot for climbing in New Mexico over the years, regardless of whether you (or I) always agree with the style in which they put up some of the climbs they FA'd. If you have a point worthy of discussion, I'm sure you can get in touch with them. Unlike you, these are all "real people", I'd bet that most NM climbers who can climb 5.12d know at least one of them, and I'm appreciative of what they've done for other climbers in this state over the last 25 years. Thanks guys.
By bruno-cx
Oct 8, 2017

George,
That's pretty weak telling someone not to use a pseudonym name on public forum. Guessing that Tim Struck a nerve with you?

Aaron,
I would expect better behavior from a site administrator. Several years ago after witnessing you clean a route on one of the busiest days I have even seen seen at The Shack, it's clear you lack good judgment not only at the crag but online. I was pretty surprised that one of the many dogs running around that day did not get struck by the rockfall you created. Furthermore you and your crew seemed downright pissed off that other people were climbing that day.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Oct 10, 2017

Fair enough, bruno-cx. I'm weak enough as it is. (Like Aaron, I've occasionally been mildly annoyed by mean-spirited trolling on topics involving NM climbing over the years, but I don't remember having any past disagreements with this particular "Tim Lutz" and I'm not saying I necessarily disagree with him this time.) Still, in any case, direct communication between real people is more effective than comments, especially anonymous ones, on this site.

Along those lines, I'll suggest that you ought to have talked to Aaron if you disagreed with how he's going about something at Diablo. (He's heard me out when I've voiced some opinions at times, not that my judgment is worth listening to.) Instead, here you are anonymously badmouthing someone who has done so much for NM and Diablo climbing... That seems pretty weak to me... See you around.

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