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95 Degrees in the Shade S 
95 Degrees In The Sun S 
Bait and Switch S 
Boots On The Ground S 
Crazy Horse S 
Dedo Grande S 
Fly Away Roof S 
Lucky Stars S 
Mind Bender S 
Miss Brown T,S 
Mission George S 
More Funky than Monkey S 
Pony Express S 
Power Pod S 
Red Dihedral T 
Ring Finger S 
Schadenfreude S 
Soy Chango S 
Tikki Man S 
Up Stream S 
White Arete S 

95 Degrees in the Shade 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Worrall,Shannon, et all
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: SCherry on Mar 24, 2014

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Description 

Starts at the 2-bolt "Oven Belay" shared with the start of Crazy Horse and 95 Degrees in the Sun. This is often the hottest spot on the cliff, out of the wind, and can be brutally baking for the belayer.

Pitch 1:(12a)- Short and steep pitch that shares the first 4 bolts with Crazy Horse. Tricky on-sight. Leave the belay and climb right on white softer rock up past 3 bolts then gain a stance below the steep climbing. Clip the last shared bolt as the climb steepens and moves left for a final 3 bolts through a super steep roof (crux). Once over the roof make a couple more moves, and either go right to the 2-bolt belay on Pony Express (decent stance here), or go left into a short corner for 15 feet of easier climbing to anchors on a sloping ledge to the left (hanging belay). This belay is at the base of a beautiful green lichen covered wall.

Pitch 2:(12b)- Move off the belay to the right and figure out how to squeeze into the obvious strange pod feature. Stand up and climb right from the pod to where the wall gets vertical. Climb up into a short finger crack that ends at a big rest jug. Then climb up and right under a large white colored flake to the crux. Probably 2 ways to do this section; I climbed right into some very small right hand side pulls in a scoop, and the small crimps to a big move to a jug to the right of the last bolt, but there also must be a way to climb left and use the big flake (maybe taller beta?). Either way the climb ends at a nice ledge that is shared with the final belay for White Arete.

Pitch 3:(5.10)- Climb up and to the left off the belay (the final 10a pitch of White Arete climbs to the right) into an obvious corner feature and then out onto the face above for a final 40-50 feet of climbing to the top of the wall. Good moderate pitch.

Location 

Begins from the 4th set of base anchors (if counting from the left). Best approached by carefully scrambling in from the right. Easiest path is to climb up past the base anchors for Soy Chango and keep going left to the obvious alcove I've dubbed "the oven belay".

Protection 

16 bolts. All bolted belays


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