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Rock Climbing Photo: Making the moves on the Green A just above the 5.1...
Id# 9200380, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By dnaiscool
May 31, 2015
This climb is more of a slab climb than a crack climb. This climber is displaying superior slab tech with his body erect and well away from the rock, pouring all of his weight into those well placed footholds. I'll bet he has very little weight on those fingers. Climbers with poor slab tech will over-pull on their fingers, lean into the rock, and be wrestling with slipping feet the entire way, and I'll bet that was a part of what caused the injury mentioned above.

The real beauty in this route is that there are loads of sound footholds, and when you are comfortable with that, placing good gear brings in elements artistry and creativity that makes this route such a wonderful thing to lead. Next time you go to lead this, make a conscious effort to pull as little as possible with the fingers, and really dump the weight into those feet. If you get a little of that Elvis Leg, then simply dropping the ankle will bring that to a halt.

My rack: Tons of #2-7 Stoppers and a fist of RP nuts, racked on the left hip, and 10 quickdraws.
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Making the moves on the Green A just above the 5.10 start. This was the day before a climber popped his gear in this exact same spot and ended up in the hospital.

Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Jul 10, 2005
On this route:
The Green Adjective (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a )
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Photo Of: raygay

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