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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Vince Adams
Page Views: 1,444
Submitted By: Spencer Anderson on Aug 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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One of the longest routes at the Compound, going all the way to the lip of the ampatheater. Shares the same classic start as Gun Town but take a hard right after clipping the long red (now a chain) draw at the ninth bolt. Make a few big reaches on good holds to get to the sandstone ledge. Here you can find a great rest (hint: look at the Knezek guide book). Get it all back then launch into the final steep head wall making some big moves on some great slopers and pinches.
No distinct crux. You just need a lot of power-endurance and the right body position to hang on at the end. Amazing movement from bottom to top.


17 bolts and a pair of chain anchors.

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By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 16, 2012

Thought this ending was better than Gun Tower. Maybe a little soft for the grade particularly with the rest. Also the sling on the last draw was getting cut up pretty bad by some of the sharp cobbles. I would have switched it but didn't have any draws with me.
By Matthew Garvin
Jun 24, 2013

The draw at the anchor has been removed as of 6-23-13. There are now two carabiners which seemed to fix the problem but keep an eye on you rope just to be safe.
By dnoB ekiM
Sep 4, 2015
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

The fact that the description above says there is no distinct crux on this route is odd. The moves shortly after the knee bar on the shelf (AKA the crux) are at least V5 and are wayyyy harder than any other section on this route. The other hardish moves are the start, the gravely undercling and the moves by the chain draw...but at best...those sections are V3 (maybe only V2?).

Based upon my experience and those who I have discussed this route with...there is definitely a distinct crux on this route...and it is perfectly placed just below the last bolt...but it is significantly tamed by a bomber kneebar rest just before it.

This route is one of the best steep lines I have ever been on! A MUST do!
By lech
May 29, 2017
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Two of the bolts are starting to come out of the wall. These should be glue-ins to prevent future issues. The route it's self is fantastic. Take a few draws as there was a missing one and the chains didn't have anything.
By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Aug 23, 2017

Sweet route,
Pretty soft for the grade, however awesome all the same.
I recommend clipping the chains, then unclipping, and down climbing to the draw below the lip. The lip is definitely not super rope friendly and the climbing is easy.

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