REI Community
82 Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crème de la Choss S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Quills  S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

82 Main Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.37746, -72.86114 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,778
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kris Fiore on May 27, 2015
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: After the trail day in Fall of 2015 this trail was...

  • Trail leads between parcels of private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

  • Description 

    Some of the best long routes in Bolton. Most routes require a few pieces of gear or a bold head to be lead save for a few all-sport exceptions.

    Getting There (Updated Spring 2016) 

    I recommend bringing a local if it's your first time or following the instruction in the guidebook Tough Schist. This will prevent accidentally ending up on private land.

    Hiking time is about 25 minutes for a good hiker knowing the trail:

    -Otherwise here is the lengthy but detailed directions as per the 2015 Fall trail day trail that was finalized.

    -Begin from the quarry and head past the kiosk toward the upper quarry.
    -Continue right around the shoulder of the quarry and take the second left fork with a small yellow sign that says "82/Carcass".
    -Continue up steep hiking for 3 or 4 minutes until you are at the top of the quarry at a T- intersection. Turn right for Carcass, left for 82.
    -Continue up steeply following yellow trail markers until you reach a flatter logging road with small boulders at the intersection.
    -Turn right and continue for 400 feet.
    -When you spot the bright orange posted signs, look for an obvious trail on your left marked with pink flagging.
    -Continue up this steep trail past a few water trenches until it splits left or right.
    -The left passage is blocked by branches, go right for 30 or so feet until the trail is blocked by branches again and a small trail can be found splitting off to the left. If you somehow get to the big downed birch, you went too far.
    -Continue up one final hill until the trail evens out and starts clearing into very pretty berry bushes.
    -Continue for 5 or so minutes until you hit another logging road. From here the top of the October Wall can already be seen.
    -Continue downhill (right) for about 500 feet until you reach a cairn and a trail marked with pink flagging on your left.
    -Follow this down and to the base of the cliff where it hits the cliff under the route "Block Party".

    Climbing Season

    For the 82 Crag area.

    Weather station 7.2 miles from here

    11 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in 82 Main Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 82 Main Wall:
    Quills    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 90'   
    The Politics of Dancing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
    Block Party   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Truffle Hog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Kid Charlemagne   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    War on Drugs   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
    Year of the Dog   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Arms Reduction   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 60'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 82 Main Wall

    Featured Route For 82 Main Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good shot of the exposure on Politics.  Photo by, ...

    The Politics of Dancing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13  Vermont : Bolton Area : ... : 82 Main Wall
    Said by those who have climbed it to be the "Prince of Darkness" of the East. This route epitomizes sustained face climbing with killer exposure to boot. Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comf...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

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