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82 Crag

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82 Crag Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.37808, -72.86009 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,336
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin R on Apr 17, 2010  with updates from Kris Fiore

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  • Description 

    One of Bolton's finest areas.

    The large cliff band about 25 minute walk uphill from the Bolton Quarry (see map). This cliff is home to some of the hardest, most bad-ass sport climbing in the state of Vermont. The 82 Crag has many climbs in the 5.11 to 5.12+ range. I would say it has some of the best 5.11's and 5.12's I have ever been on such as Arms Reduction (11b/c), Afro-Samurai (11d), the Doggfather (12b), Solarium (12b), Encryption (12c/d), Little Red Hen (12d). This crag has it all and the views are fantastic. A nice breeze tends to keep the 82 Crag a little cooler than others in the summer. It's about a 25 minute walk mostly uphill only if you don't get lost on the trails (otherwise could be quite a long hike). Try to check in here or with locals before you go to get some idea of where you are going.

    Sub-areas include October Wall, reached during the approach to 82 Crag, and Chapel Crag, just above the Main Face.

    Getting There 

    Park in the Bolton Quarry Parking lot and follow the WHITE line trail on the map provided (hopefully this will help). The red trail crosses private property.
    There is a specific network of trails/logging roads that must be followed and I suggest using a GPS device your first time so you don't get too lost. For the upper part of the crag (i.e. Doggfather, Little Red Hen, Afro Samurai, Encryption) you must climb up a 5.4 choss pile with a fixed rope for about 30 feet to get to the base of it.

    You can also follow the directions listed in Tough Schist.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 7.2 miles from here

    32 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in 82 Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 82 Crag:
    Vanishing Act   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 95'   October Wall
    Quills    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 90'   82 Main Wall
    Block Party   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   82 Main Wall
    The Politics of Dancing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   82 Main Wall
    Third Wave   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   October Wall
    Truffle Hog   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   82 Main Wall
    War on Drugs   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   82 Main Wall
    Kid Charlemagne   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   82 Main Wall
    Han Shot First   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 40'   October Wall
    Year of the Dog   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   82 Main Wall
    Arms Reduction   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 60'   82 Main Wall
    Afro Samurai   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   82 Steep Wall
    The Doggfather   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   82 Steep Wall
    Beyond   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   82 Steep Wall
    Solarium   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 60'   82 Steep Wall
    Little Red Hen   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   82 Steep Wall
    Encryption   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   82 Steep Wall
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 82 Crag

    Featured Route For 82 Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good shot of the exposure on Politics.  Photo by, ...

    The Politics of Dancing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13  Vermont : Bolton Area : ... : 82 Main Wall
    Said by those who have climbed it to be the "Prince of Darkness" of the East. This route epitomizes sustained face climbing with killer exposure to boot. Politics has a common start with "Crimp Chimp", then breaks hard left at the overlap/ledge until you are in front of the small birch tree. Take a deep breath, and make a quasi-committing move up to the first bolt. A fall from before clipping the first bolt would be less than ideal, so if one chooses, a yellow Alien can be placed from a comf...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

    Comments on 82 Crag Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By mattseverson
    From: Corinth, VT
    Apr 12, 2017
    FYI:Caution!!! Climbed War on Drugs at 82 crag yesterday, 4/11/17, and there is a failing/pulled bolt on the route, 2nd from the top. I couldn't quite get it out with my fingers, but it's 75% of the way....also many loose hangers and nuts on the well as loose hangers/nuts on Arms REduction. REcommend bringing a wrench with you if you are venturing up.
    By Kris Fiore
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Apr 12, 2017
    Hey Matt,

    I'll let Greg Kuchyt know. He's our local rebolting guru and has hardware for the job. Sounds like it might be a good candidate.
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Apr 15, 2017
    The bolts Matt and Kris are referencing were inspected and replaced as needed between 4.14.17 and 4.15.17. Thanks to Rob Fleming for his help.
    By Jonathan Perry
    May 8, 2017
    Looking for some Bolton beta. Anyone know what the rock is like right now? Thanks climbers.
    By Matt McCormick
    Apr 11, 2012
    For the grades at 82 I would suggest (Crusty By Nature .11a, Beyond .12b, Doggfather .12b, Red Hen .12c, Encryption .12d, Team America .12d) I'd say all of these grades are pretty solid. Encryption feels harder to me than Venus in Rumney which SOLID in the .12c grade and Team America felt about as hard and took more tries though I used a bit different beta than others. Red Hen has harder individual moves but has a huge rest on it. I think these grades would hold up at any crag. I'd be curious to see what Travis puts in the new book...
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Apr 30, 2012
    I have upgraded Encryption to 12d and will take your word for it there however I am keeping Little Red Hen 12d unless I hear a lot more feedback to the contrary which so far I haven't. I feel "Who's Your Daddy" is the benchmark 12c for the area and LRH feels a notch harder to me. I am still mixed on Beyond because it was harder for me to redpoint than the Doggfather which is considered the benchmark 12b for the area - but I could wrong as I tend to be more power than endurance oriented (hence b/c grade). I also feel Arms Reduction should be upgraded - seems like a stretch to call it 11b but I am waiting for more suggestions there. Those are my two cents and with more feedback from people I'll change the grades to match what most people suggest regardless of what I think - please add yours
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Apr 30, 2012
    Also worth mentioning that Alan Blade broke a hole on LRH recently (see his comment on the route) which seems noteworthy in terms of its difficulty - I have not been on it since then but I suspect it makes the reachy sidepull move down low harder.
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Mar 10, 2013
    Interesting side story regarding grades at Bolton - Back in 2011 I was at the 82 Crag one day with Alan Blade and a climber I won't name that I knew from Boston was there who climbs a bunch at Rumney. He explained to me that he had read about The Doggfather online (presumably here) and was used to onsighting 12's at Rumney. I asked him if he wanted any beta and he quickly assured me he wouldn't need any. I then proceeded to watch him take about 6 whippers off the end of the techie 5.11+ section just before you get to the no-hands rest (i.e. well before the route crux at the end). This is a tricky section and can feel hard if you don't know what you are doing. When he finally asked me for my beta there he didn't seem to be able to make any use of it and looked at me incredulously as if I was making stuff up. After watching him fall several times I left the scene but with a bit of a sense that indeed Bolton is not Rumney so beware that you will likely be climbing a letter grade or more lower. I bet he probably did send it eventually later on but still interesting to watch....

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