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80m vs 70m rope
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Feb 24, 2016
I'm trying to decide between a 80m and 70m rope The 80m is cheaper 9.8mm 6falls and non dry the 70m is 10.2mm 11 falls, dry and 30 bucks more. I think that the 70m is a better choice but my partner is trying to convince me that the 80m isuseful sometimes and it's hard to find an 80 meter rope.

So my question is. Do I need a 80m rope in Colorado area? or is it just more rope to carry around. 60m worked for me so far and I do have a double 60m.
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points
Administrator
Feb 24, 2016
JulianG wrote:
60m worked for me so far and I do have a double 60m.

Then you are you even considering an 80m? If 60m works fine, that's your answer, get 60m. I use a 60m and I am fine with it. If I need a second rope to get down, I use a pull cord. I would only buy a 70m if the area I climbed in had a ton of routes that needed it, and I would never buy an 80m.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,109 points
Feb 24, 2016
An 80 is nice to have in Indian Creek where some routes are up to 180 feet long. 9.8mm tends to handle a bit better than 10.2mm. I wouldn't put much stock in the UIAA falls rating for each, as the UIAA test has basically no application in real climbing (1.7FF on the same spot on the rope, repeat until it breaks). What I would look at is the grams/meter of rope. Without knowing specifics, two things come to mind.

-70m of rope is less rope than 80m of rope. Simple math.
-That said, if the 80m rope is lighter per meter than the 70m rope, the weight may end up about the same.

Outside of Indian Creek, an 80m is mostly just extra rope to haul around. If you decide to head up a multi-pitch with it to try and link pitches, you'll end up with more rope drag, as well as needing to carry more gear to protect the longer pitch, both of which could negate the benefit of linking pitches anyway.

If you're looking for a specific rope that will be your cragging rope, I'd think about the 80. If you're looking for a all-around rope that you'll take just about every day, I'd consider the 70.
Matt.Zia
From Leadville, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2012
181 points
Feb 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
I would go with 9.8 instead of 10.2. What's the weight per meter? I bet 80m weighs the same as the 70m. Worse case, cut the extra 10m - you got a cheaper and lighter rope. doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
412 points
Feb 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Ne...
180' pitch would need a 110m rope to lower off... Greg Barnes
Joined Apr 10, 2006
1,681 points
Feb 24, 2016
True, you'd need a custom 110m rope to get off some stuff without a second rope. There's a whole heap of routes at the Creek that are in the 150' range though that an 80 will get you down from. Only place I even consider wanting an 80m. Matt.Zia
From Leadville, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2012
181 points
Feb 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Reporting Live from some where on Canon Cliff, Whi...
doligo wrote:
I would go with 9.8 instead of 10.2. What's the weight per meter? I bet 80m weighs the same as the 70m. Worse case, cut the extra 10m - you got a cheaper and lighter rope.

OP... the numbers have spoken
Derek Jf
From Northeast
Joined Feb 29, 2012
398 points
Feb 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
If you're going to be taking a lot of falls on it, I would consider the 80m not because you will need 80m but because you could cut the ends multiple times without having it get too short. If you plan to use the rope a lot and don't mind the extra 10m of weight/bulk to carry, it's gonna be more economical in the long run. eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Feb 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Old school liebacker
Back in the day, 50m of Gold Line was all you needed. Then 60, and I recently bought a 70. Where the hell is this going and why? Roy Suggett
Joined Jul 20, 2009
6,244 points
Feb 24, 2016
Like others have said, rope drag limits how high you can drag an 80 going up. But I keep finding places where an 80 makes getting down faster. Seems like there are a lot of 40 meter rappels out there from the days when folks put up routes with 50s and planned for double rope raps. Tapas
From Utah
Joined Feb 8, 2010
120 points
Feb 24, 2016
Roy Suggett wrote:
Back in the day, 50m of Gold Line was all you needed. Then 60, and I recently bought a 70. Where the hell is this going and why?


Pfft... my first rope, a Goldline, was 120 feet. That's a bit under 37 meters.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,618 points
Feb 24, 2016
Neither rope is very practical for multi-pitch climbing - both are very heavy compared to the modern norm. 9.8 is a much more versatile diameter and plenty beefy for almost anything. Some newer sport climbs in western CO and elsewhere require an 80, but more important, the 5-10m on each end of any rope used for sport climbing will wear out much faster than the middle, so you could cut your 80 several times and still have a functional 70- or 60-meter cord. I've seldom noticed much difference between dry and non, especially once the rope gets some wear. Some of my favorite ropes have been untreated. J Achey
Joined Aug 28, 2009
156 points
Feb 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: pic of me
you are going to hate carrying around an 80m rope unless it is absolutely necessary for you to send your mega proj. if I was buying a 80m rope, then it would absolutely not be a 9.8mm, probably would get something skinnier like a 9.2 or 9.4 to save some weight. JoshL
Joined Oct 22, 2012
35 points
Feb 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tuolumne
Ask yourself some questions: Do you climb tall routes and enjoy doing mega long pitches? Do you want to increase your odds of reaching ledge to ledge on the big stuff? Do you want to roll the dice a bit and do linked or long raps and count on guide book overestimations of length (very common) and rope stretch to get you to the next station? Do you know how to (and enjoy) safely down climbing to a rap station in the event that you don't quite reach a linked/long rap? Are you dumb/smart enough to believe that extra weight just makes you stronger? Do you take the big whippers and wear out your ropes near the ends necessitating frequent chopping?....

If you answered yes to 2 of these or if the rope is less expensive.... get the 80.
Abel Jones
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 24, 2010
241 points
Feb 25, 2016
Abel Jones wrote:
Ask yourself some questions: Do you climb tall routes and enjoy doing mega long pitches? Do you want to increase your odds of reaching ledge to ledge on the big stuff? Do you want to roll the dice a bit and do linked or long raps and count on guide book overestimations of length (very common) and rope stretch to get you to the next station? Do you know how to (and enjoy) safely down climbing to a rap station in the event that you don't quite reach a linked/long rap? Are you dumb/smart enough to believe that extra weight just makes you stronger? Do you take the big whippers and wear out your ropes near the ends necessitating frequent chopping?.... If you answered yes to 2 of these or if the rope is less expensive.... get the 80.



Well I do tend to be dumb more than smart :-) but it is hard to pass on a 80m rope for 130 bucks. 50 cents a foot. So I got the 70M and my partner got the 80M.

I believe that ropes and harnesses should the replaced every couple of years. We don't back up single ropes or harnesses as we do with every other climbing gear. And I do have 2 pairs of shoes and chalk bags just in case. Not to mention that nylon and certain chemicals don't mix. I'm retiring my current rope, that is still new because I left into in my van for too long(more than a year)Well at least retiring from outdoors climbing gym padded floors and bolts every 4 ft make a big difference
JulianG
Joined Oct 27, 2009
135 points


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