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YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Dick and Marilyn DuMais (1969)
Page Views: 4,272
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: 69 (ignore the climber)


Not a bad little route. Good for the end of the day walk back.

Climb the easy face to a large ledge and left-facing flake. Climb the flake to a roof and loose block, then move right and up to a stance (crux). Diagonal further right past a face and up to a large ledge and belay tree.


In the alcove left of the Gerdie block, on a slab 50 feet left of No Picnic and just right of a broken section of cliff, below an orange roof, about 60 feet up slope from the Carriage Road at the high point of the rock slope.


Standard Gunks rack. G.

Photos of 69 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek Nabozny moving out on 69
BETA PHOTO: Derek Nabozny moving out on 69
Rock Climbing Photo: My wife enjoying 69.
BETA PHOTO: My wife enjoying 69.
Rock Climbing Photo: Protecting the traverse before getting to the loos...
BETA PHOTO: Protecting the traverse before getting to the loos...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up 69
Finishing up 69
Rock Climbing Photo: A beginner works the route
A beginner works the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiffany Chin taking a lap on 69
Tiffany Chin taking a lap on 69

Comments on 69 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 20, 2009

This is a pretty good route for new leaders, just remind them not to place gear behing the giant loose hold...
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2010

Not great, not terrible. Not really worth doing. I was working with a new leader and she did a fine job. The traverse under the roof looked daunting from the ground, but, once she got up there, she was fine. The "X" block is a bit offputting.
By derek nabozny
From: Norwalk, CT
Dec 2, 2010

One of my favorite warm ups, as long as you get there early and there isint a TR on it. 69 was on my tick list ( cuz of the name) for about 2 months before I actually had a chance to get on it. I went off the left facing corner of no picnic then traversed under the sketchy X block before breaking out and instead of moving up thru the stance I traversed right ( to the nose...not sure where the exact route goes) and up to the ledge where you can either move right into pine sapy corner or pull the .5 ? mantle move to the top of the ledge. Came back the next day and lead it again with 2 gear placements.
By Nick Hamilton
From: Philadelphia
Sep 24, 2014

I agree with Gail. I put my friend, a new leader, on this recently. Looking up at the traverse bit from the ground, he wasn't sure it would go at 5.3. Once up there he was just fine though. The route itself is just okay.

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