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Unsorted Routes:

60 Seconds Over Soledad 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob & Rusty Garing, 1970
Page Views: 5,486
Submitted By: M. Morley on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Peter Croft Soloing 60 Seconds


Start just left of a scrawny-looking oak, up a prominent, discontinuous deep gash. Good quality, dark rock that protects well. Awkward climbing - the trick is not to get sucked in too deep. Head up towards the slot, up and left a to 2-bolt anchor (new chains with rings added 9/04). One stripped bolt was replaced with one stainless steel Fixe 12mm bolt at that time.


Standard rack.

Photos of 60 Seconds Over Soledad Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux
Pulling the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Croft at the 60 seconds start
Peter Croft at the 60 seconds start
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on the sharp end.
Jeff on the sharp end.

Comments on 60 Seconds Over Soledad Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 11, 2012
By Scott Bullock
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

OK we all call it 5.6 because that's what we read in the guide book. True, most of the route is easy 5 but we all know squezing out of the chimney and moving out onto the face is way harder than 5.6 especially if you are leading it. Compared to Yosemite routes like After 6, Munginella or The Great White Book it is harder. The 5.6 is a sand bag in my opinion. If you are going to lead it take my 5.8- rating up with you... you'll be glad you did.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Feb 23, 2004

I defintely think it's 5.6 if you have good crack technique.
By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Sep 16, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Definitely 5.6. Remember that flares, offwidth, etc. seem to have a different rating system to them...
By John Knight
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb was originally called "Dead Rats Crack". That name got transmogrified into "Dirty Rats Crack" and somehow landed on the ramp about 50' to the right. Anyway, 60 Seconds was originally called Dead Rats Crack. Here's the description from one of the first ascentionists, Richard Pfost:

While attending Cuesta College during the spring of 1971, John Mitchell, Romeo Betita, and myself, traveled to Yosemite Valley and took climbing lessons for Spring Break. After a week of adventure, we were excited to find some hard rock in central California. The only problem is that we had to wait several weeks before going down to Ventura to Chouniard Equipment to get some gear. After spending what little money I had on a new rope, a few binears, Robbins boots, some pins and a hammer, we started tresspassing on every property that had any vertical face. Early in April 1971, after class, we ended up on Bishop's Peak. Walked up and liked the look of the crack system, geared up, set the bottom belay and started up. Other than the oder of throwing out the "dead rat" from an area of a perfect hand jam, it was a great climb for the three novices. We did it a number of times, including learning to go from pins to chokes. We ran into Rusty Garing and his dad Bob several times up on the side of Bishop's Peak. We became long-time friends.
By Pete26
From: Aurora,il
Dec 27, 2009

This was my second trad lead ever and it was in my opinion slightly higher than a 5.6 even when I climbed it later on top rope. Very fun but in my opinion 5.6 is a sand bag grade. Takes pro very well for most of the route.
By Dan S
From: grass valley
Aug 23, 2010

Took lots a nuts very well.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun! It is part pulling on jugs, part jamming and part chimneying/stemming on some really cool rock. Maybe take a couple extra bigger cams for the top half.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Overall a STELLER route that is easy to overprotect. You could probably place a complete double set of BD C4's (0.3 to 3) and one or more of C4#4-6 if you like. Definitely harder than 5.6 if you use little to no crack technique. I didn't see any place where jams would have been overly useful and efficient, as most holds were juggy and positive, but I'm not a crack climber.

Some of the dark rock was a bit grimy, but the humidity and cold of the day and recent rains may have contributed to that. Definitely will climb again and again!
By Lindsay P
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.6 once I figured out how to avoid getting too deep. Great route for my first outdoor climb. Love the views of SLO from the top!
By Ken Klis
Feb 3, 2012

By John Knight
Feb 11, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

At least you don't have to worry about forgetting any gear in the car.

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