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6+ months of elbow tendonitis
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Jun 28, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Chew toyed
A bunch of good posts so far, here's my take after battling wickedly bad elbow problems for 5-6 bad at some points that I couldn't even hold a dry erase pen and write on a whiteboard with one arm...had to learn how to write left handed...

ASTYM. Look it up...


Rice bucket....

Use the arm that hurts less...

As mentioned, sleep CORRECTLY!

The hardest thing for me is not getting so far out of shape and de-siked when you are injured that you don't immediately get (re)injured coming back. I try to avoid this by not doing too much of any one thing (sport/boulder/crack) and not very hard climbing. But it's really hard to ratchet back up into the hardest routes after you have done "old person's PT". You have to take a longer viewpoint for this....almost every climber that is really pushing their limits will have hurt fingers/forearms/somethings, so that can "help" to reflect on...
James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Joined Dec 21, 2008
71 points
Jun 28, 2013
One thing I was doing for a while that my be good was to use a 10 lb sledge hammer and with my elbow braced on my leg while sitting to rotate the hammer through 180 degrees, back and forth like a metronome. I don't currently do any extra wrist forearm work but get some antagonist work in once or twice a week i.e. push ups, shoulder work. No one has validated my comments about using glucosemine or other anti-inflammatories but all I can say is since I started my regime I have been tendinitis free for over two years without ever even taking a week off from climbing. Before that I was plagued for over two years and can tell by the pictures taken during that time all had the velcro band firmly tightened below my elbow. thedogfather
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Dec 16, 2006
126 points
Jun 28, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple Jeopardy starting from 1/3 of the way up.  ...
I further support eccentric contraction therapy, stretching, and maybe massage. Also consider a compression sleeve - they seem to reduce the aggravation during exercise (but I don't wear it while doing the eccentric contractions). Bill Czajkowski
From Albuquerque, NM
Joined Oct 6, 2008
42 points

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