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Stone Cold Moderate S 
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Wild Card S 

5th of July 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1997.
Fixed Hardware: 10 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 14,259
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (445)
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DO THIS ROUTE because it's definitely one of the best in the canyon! Simply a fantastic route; fun for both the studly 12 ropegunner and the beginner friends you're taking out. It's 85' down from the anchors, so be careful lowering/rapping with a 50m rope.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering chains. Minimal rope drag, so it's a good top-rope once someone's led up to the anchors.

Eds. As of 2016, the 2nd bolt/hanger and anchor bolts were replaced by Erika & Jim Wong. Thanks!

Photos of 5th of July Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of th...
BETA PHOTO: Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of th...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st half.
1st half.
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne Williams leads 5th of July on May 27, 2010.
Anne Williams leads 5th of July on May 27, 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson on belay for Dan (flying up 5th of July).
Tyson on belay for Dan (flying up 5th of July).
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Knights on 5th of July.
Dan Knights on 5th of July.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick Anderson Clipping the upper section of the ro...
Rick Anderson Clipping the upper section of the ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting 5th of July
Starting 5th of July
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing on the 5th of July
Climbing on the 5th of July
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux.
Approaching the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morgan, shortly after passing the crux of 5.9+ 5th...
Morgan, shortly after passing the crux of 5.9+ 5th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew sending 5th of July on January 1st!
Drew sending 5th of July on January 1st!

Comments on 5th of July Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2016
By Tyler Jones
Jan 1, 2001

This is one of the best routes of its grade anywhere. You gotta love how the holds keep shrinking until you find that huge pocket, and the start is cool, too!!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 3, 2001

Duh-oh! This comment was for "Stone Cold Moderate" which is next to "5th of July." Sorry.

Any-friggin' how, it seemed to me that these two climbs share the same first bolt. After that, 5th of July is a much more interesting ride. The anchors are way back from the top of the wall, which makes verbal communication with your belayer quite difficult. A 50m rope might even get you dropped that last two or three feet as it slips through your belayer's device. That is, if they are walking back to try and see you. Better tie a big knot in the end of that rope thar. Yup.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2001

I think it is easier to rap off than lower on this, avoiding the whole mis-communication thing with your belayer.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 5, 2001

I'm curious as to whether any or all of the pockets on this and nearby routes were drilled?
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 5, 2001

Charles, I don't chip. I don't drill pockets.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 6, 2001

I have climbed this route multiple times. In Richard's defense, these are not drilled pockets; they are as natural as they come. I know a little about this as a geologist. Can you spell weathering? Boy, Richard would be really hard up if he needed to reduce routes to a 5.9 level.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 6, 2001

I tried to phrase my question as neutrally as possible; I wasn't trying to be suggestive! I've never seen pockets like that on metamorhpic rock which is why I wondered in the first place--also, I've heard rumors of some CCC routes being chipped, but there are many routes. Good climb!
By Morgan Brown
Oct 10, 2001

My second outdoor sport climb, the first being "Stone Cold Moderate". It's a pretty good route. Not a sustained 5.9 climb, but all these routes seem to have that problem. I remember a straightforward jug to get off the ground, followed by 30 feet of steadily narrowing holds, and then the awesome finger-pocket crux! BTW, is this finger pocket real, or an old bolt hole? After the crux, it's 30 easy feet to the anchors.
By James Young
Jun 24, 2002

This is a definite "must do" while visiting High wire. The beginning's not too tricky and adds to the flavor of the route. You'll probably have to wait in line for this route though, so be prepared.
By Wendie
Jun 25, 2002

What a great route!! The length is wonderful - one of the longer single pitches on this wall! All beginning leaders should check it out, if they don't get intimidated by the start. It's not that hard, if you stay on the jugs to the left!
By shad O'Neel
Jul 23, 2002

Thanks for drilling these bolts, and not the pockets Richard, this is as glorious as it gets!
By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Apr 16, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First move is a bit bouldery, be safe and clip the first bolt from the rock to the right. This is a fun route with good starting move. Run up it if you're at highwire.
By Rob Migliore
Jun 25, 2004

Best sport route I've done.
By patrick o
Apr 3, 2006

I might call it a 5.8 but it's got good rock w/ solid holds, bolts every 8 ft so it's well protected. Good length. Great beginner for the 5.9 realm for sure.
By Nate Oakes
May 15, 2006

Very nice route. The jugs for the start are huge, and it's a lot easier than it looks. Use a stout heel-hook to help get over it. And I didn't see any unnatural holds along the route, though I think that's been well-covered by now.
By Nathan Hill
Sep 3, 2007

Loved this route!!! I took my first lead fall on this and broke my ankle...still finished the was great. After I get my cast off, this is the first one I am going to climb.
By Dan Stackhouse
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very consistent route. It's not like you get past the crux and the climb is over. I like that. Bottom bolt shared with Stone Cold Moderate.
By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Apr 3, 2010

I thought this climb was fairly stout for 5.9. I'd rate it 5.9+ but I did not see any finger pocket at the crux. Great route that needs some attention given to the anchor. Right bolt needs tightening; might bring a wrench. Thanks to the first ascent folk for putting it up and for taking care of so many climbs!! As for any drilled pockets....I thought it was funny that someone would even think that they might be manufactured. For the most part they are huge! All in all a great route.
By Darren Buford
May 28, 2010

Terrific route for lead or top rope. Fun, fun, fun.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Excellent climbing and good falling for the new 9 leader. Made in the Shade is similar and longer at Canal Zone. First move is fun and Tarzan-esque.
By Coppolo
From: Denver, CO
Dec 1, 2011

Spinners at the anchor. Didn't have a wrench. Rapped fine (obviously) but should be looked into.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Dec 10, 2013

In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association ( They appreciate your support.
By Jason Platt
Jun 17, 2014

Great route all around! Fun start leads into really solid face climbing. The crux is pretty long. It spans about 3 bolts on the lower section of the face. When you get to the top, don't forget to turn around and look at the view. It's amazing!
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Oct 16, 2015

In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - provided the hardware. They appreciate your support.
By Aaron Sefton
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I recommend stick clipping the first bolt. The first couple of moves are pretty exciting, especially if you approach from the right side of the gully. However, I think the start to Stone Cold Moderate just to the left might be a little harder, but the rest of the climb is excellent with some fun pockets and dishes.
By ErikaNW
From: Golden, CO
Jun 26, 2016

Both anchor bolts and the 2nd lead bolt/hanger were replaced by Jim Wong and myself on June 16, 2016. Hardware was provided through an Access Fund/AAC Fixed Anchor Replacement Initiative grant.
By stickit
Oct 17, 2016

Good gear lead. <ore solid placement possibilities than bolts.

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