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Breakfast Club Peak
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5am Breakfast S 
Blackstar S 

5am Breakfast 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gedas Simutis and Saule Zukauskaite
Page Views: 194
Submitted By: Patrick Betts on Apr 15, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking down the combined pitches of 5 and 6

Description 

Although there are 6 bolted pitches it is best done in 3 or 4 pitches. Below is described in 4 pitches:

Pitch 1, 5.9: from the start of the route work your way up and left, over and around some dubious rock; around the arete to the left then up a fun and solid narrow pillar to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2, 5.9+: Climb over the top of the pillar; through some vegetation as you move up and left, gaining a 2.5" to 3.5" crack in a right facing dihedral. Follow this up for not-long-enough until move left over the arete and finish up some face climbing to a 2 bolt anchor.

note: Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined with appropriate long slings and (best to) skipping a few bolts after the pitch 1 anchors

Pitch 3+4, 5.10a + 5.9: Head straight up from, move right then move back left following the bolts. Continue up fun face climbing to reach a two bolt anchor. Continue passed this anchor, through some dirt and vegetation and climb 20 feet or some of left facing dihedral to another two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5+6, 5.10b + 5.8: The whole reason why you climbed this route. Continue up for 35 meters for fun splutter left facing dihedral climbing. Skip the first 2 bolt anchor you come to and continue for 3 more bolts to the top of the route.

Location 

Follow directions to Breakfast Club Peak; currently the only route here.

Protection 

all bolts and two bolt anchors. Bring 18 or so quickdraws to climb it as described.


Photos of 5am Breakfast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the combined pitches of 3 and 4
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the combined pitches of 3 and 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Looking down pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Looking down pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: The whole reason you're climbing this route: looki...
BETA PHOTO: The whole reason you're climbing this route: looki...

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By Patrick Betts
Apr 15, 2016

Decently fun route; especially the last 35 meters. However, you just might end up spending more time hiking and scrambling then you will climbing the route,

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