|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tom Bath on Dec 16, 2009|
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|Comments on 5.8 crack||Add Comment|
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By Chris Merz
From: Bellevue, WA
Aug 13, 2016
|Awkward start to get in the crack, gets easier higher up|
By Nathan Collins
Dec 24, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I thought this route was super fun, well all 10 feet of the vertical hand/fist crack anyway ;) This seems to be great example of an easy route that requires crack technique. Two sport climbers in our party were unable to top rope it, including a 5.10 sport leader. When we were done another group tried to lead it, but couldn't figure out how to enter the overhanging start of the hand/fist crack and bailed.
If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!
I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above.