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Barney's Rubble
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5.6 crack T,TR 
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5.8 crack T,TR 
5.9 Face TR 

5.8 crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Tom Bath on Dec 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Leading the very short crux hand/fist crack in the...

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Description 

This route starts with a slightly overhanging hand crack in an alcove. The jams are solid but the right wall makes the moves to the lip a little awkward. Once above the overhang the crack widens and the difficulty eases.

Location 

The left crack on the left wall.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5", Bolted anchor.


Photos of 5.8 crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route from the belay up to the start o...
BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the belay up to the start o...

Comments on 5.8 crack Add Comment
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By Chris Merz
From: Bellevue, WA
Aug 13, 2016

Awkward start to get in the crack, gets easier higher up
By Nathan Collins
From: Portland, OR
Dec 24, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this route was super fun, well all 10 feet of the vertical hand/fist crack anyway ;) This seems to be great example of an easy route that requires crack technique. Two sport climbers in our party were unable to top rope it, including a 5.10 sport leader. When we were done another group tried to lead it, but couldn't figure out how to enter the overhanging start of the hand/fist crack and bailed.

If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!

I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above.

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