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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 
After You T 
Back to the future T 
Bird Cage T 
Birdbrain T,TR 
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Boob Job T 
El Camino T 
El Kabong T,TR 
Elder Cleavage Direct T 
Eraserhead T,TR 
Farewell to Arms T 
Fat and Weak T 
Grease Gun Groove T 
Lonely Challenge T 
Loose Goose T 
Moe T 
Pain Strain T 
Road Warrior T,TR 
Roseland T 
Shitface T,TR 
Silver Bullet T 
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 
To Be Or Not To Be T 
To Have or Have Not T,TR 
Transcontinental Nailway T 
Tulip Mussel Garden T 
Up Yours T 
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 

5.8 Crack Climb 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: early 1960s
Page Views: 2,139
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Getting into the business on the 5.8 crack. The c...


1. Climb the first pitch of Loose Goose to a small ledge below a large crack. 5.6

2. Climb the crack above (you can't miss it) through two bulges (crux) to a stance. From there, it makes the most sense to traverse right about 30 feet to a pine tree and make one rappel (60 meter rope) back down as the climbing above the stance is neither hard nor interesting.

This can be done in one pitch.


Go left past Birdland for about 50 or 60 yards until the trail rises slightly and then levels off. You should be below a large amphitheater. Keep walking, down a little, then back up steeply for a short bit, until you come to a flat part of the trail with a pounded out area; this is perhaps 50 or 60 yards from the amphitheater. Your can orient yourself using the obvious start of Up Yours - Loose Goose starts just to the left - and you can see the crux crack about 100 feet up.


Standard 'Gunks rack plus a # 3 Camalot or its equivalent.

Comments on 5.8 Crack Climb Add Comment
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Dec 31, 2013

NB: In the newest guide, Dick describes a different P1 for this route, starting 25' left of Loose Goose's P1. He says: climb crack (5.6, crux) and short slab to ledge, then up slab (5.4 R/X) a bit left of center, then head up and right to join Loose Goose at the ledge below the business (60').
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 22, 2014

We did the 5.8 variation to Loose Goose. The crack was juggy, fun and ultimately committing. Need to go back and do it again. Lots of fun, well protected.
By Chris Mamas
From: Runnemede, NJ
Jul 29, 2017

This is an amazing variation to Loose Goose. If you’re looking for a crack climb at the Gunks this is a must do. If you are trying to learn how to jam this is the climb for you, there is always a jug around if you need. It. Beware, there are a few loose blocks at the top and on the traverse. The traverse to the pine tree repel is easy (5.5ish) but protection is challenging. The only pro I was able to get in on the traverse was a #1 C3. Double up on #3 C4 or equivalent. You may be able to use a #4 C4 but I didn’t bring one up at the time.

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