5.8 Chimney - "Choss Garden"
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BETA PHOTO: This is what's left of the most substantial flake ...
This route is at 30 degrees North by compass bearing. The route is on the northeast corner of the rock, a low angle chimney. Pitch 1 (5.8) is 160. Climb mossy cracks (reasonable protection) for 60 and then enter the main chimney. A cam (#3 Camalot) in questionable rock protects 15 feet of crux chimneying, up to a chockstone and good protection. Pass a second, larger chockstone on the left and scramble 30 feet up a very low angle chimney to a belay. Unrope and walk back (south) through a corridor, turn left and tunnel 30 to the eastern edge of the rock. Turn right and scramble (Class 4) up to a plateau where you can see the north and south summit blocks, and belay (long sling around a big knob). For the final pitch (5.6 X, 60 long), climb down to the notch, step across and mantle onto a large, loose flake. Carefully climb up over more loose flakes to the summit area.
This route starts off as a crack climb, then transitions to a reclining chimney about 75' up. This inset area is on the highest shoulder of the rock.
#1-#4 cams are best. The rock is of very poor quality - nuts and hexes will likely blow out in several placements. Carefully consider placements in the choss. We brought doubles from #1-#4 cams and several runners. The summit itself has an ANCIENT fixed pin (which unfortnately I failed to get a picture of). Not sure what it was used for. We installed 2 new bolts, slings, and a rap ring on the east face at a bearing of about 45 degrees north. A very exposed 4th class descending traverse is required to reach the anchor. Ropes were pulled easily from our new anchor. I'd recommend lowering/belaying from the summit area (good cracks on the summit) to the anchor. The rappel is 160' long.
NOTE: If that hanging flake slides off, which it will sooner or later, I don't know how you'd get up there. As it is, the last 70' pitch is a 5.6 free solo on the rotten flakes, scallops, and a few crystals.
Looking down the chimney to the ground.
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route. The climbing here is 5.7i...
Nearing the base of the rock.
When you pop out of the tunnel, you are greeted wi...
BETA PHOTO: Freshly installed.
BETA PHOTO: We slung that large, rotten boulder for our belay ...
BETA PHOTO: Squeeze chimney between the huge summit boulders b...
BETA PHOTO: Looking north to the reservoir from the route.
The rappel requires 2-60m ropes. One small 30' se...
Derrill on the rotten flake. This flake won't be ...