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5.5 Chimney T 

5.5 Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: AJ on Aug 15, 2016  with updates from Chris Walden and 1 more

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BETA PHOTO: Looking back on Block Tower (& Shark Nose) from th...

Description 

Type: 2 Pitches ~170'

P1 - 5.4 Follow the arete to a large ledge ~100'
Alternatively, come from the north (Shark's Nose) via a 4th class ramp (means you're probably doing the traverse).

P2 - 5.5 Start on a large flake, work your way past a fixed nut, then up to a ~20 foot chimney. There's a ledge below the chimney where you can comfortably attach your pack to your harness. Exit the chimney and pull a couple of easy moves to top out.

Location 

East face of block tower. If coming from the north (Shark's Nose), the route is obvious at the top of the 4th class ramp.

Descent: if doing the Cirque Traverse, 3 rappels on the south side (with a 60m) will put you right into a notch where you can downclimb west in order to scramble up a gulley to start tagging the rest of the non-technical summits.

Protection 

Small gear


Photos of 5.5 Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st Rap Station - Follow the slab down and south f...
BETA PHOTO: 1st Rap Station - Follow the slab down and south f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Seth Kane on the lead.
Seth Kane on the lead.

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