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5.11 Crack T 
Clam Shell TR 
Cold Finger S 
Colonial Rule T 
Drop Zone S,TR 
E.O. Friction S 
E.O. Lieback T 
Easy Overhang Traverse T 
Fall Wall (*the route) T 
Fear and Loathing T 
Guilty Fingers S,TR 
Gunga Din S 
Hole T 
Mickey Mantle S 
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Sport S 
Upper Fall Wall Route T 

5.11 Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mike Parker, 1968
Page Views: 5,990
Submitted By: Scott Hansen on Jul 22, 2001

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All I remember is small brass and don't fall. Summ...

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This route is the center crack on the Fall Wall and begins about 5 feet to the left of a large boulder that sits in the middle of the base of the Fall Wall. The climbing is thin and slaby with the exception of a few holds in the crack, which are also your best shot at protection. A two bolt anchor with chains awaits you under the roof.


There are two bolts on the route. The first is a long way up and the second is a long run from the first. A couple of stoppers (#5-6) as well as some small cams will protect the rest of the route.

Photos of 5.11 Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great climb.
Great climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot.
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Comments on 5.11 Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2012
By Darin Lang
Jul 27, 2001

I might even go so far as to give this route 3 stars. Continuous, technical, and thought-provoking for a 9. One of the sweetest sounds I ever heard was the biner snapping shut after finally clipping the first bolt on my first lead of this route.
By Don Stang
Sep 16, 2001

This climb will get you going on the importance of technique. Our instructors friend toproped this for us. A real eye opener for a new climber. I hope to get to try it again!
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Aug 26, 2002

Stoppers and small cams work good to supplement the two bolts.
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 12, 2003

I feel this warrants a 'PG' rating, as you can choose to either protect or use fingerlocks, but not both.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2003

Frequently the best solution to that sort of gear problem is to place gear at your waist, as you pass it. setting the smallest stopper possible allows for a remaining "pod" above that you can get your toes in without stepping on the gear.
By Andy Johnson
Apr 19, 2004

You can't place gear everywhere on this route, but what you do get is pretty bomber and definately not runout. Listen to Tony. Placing gear at your waist is a good, efficient technique anyway. Besides, you're in Vedauwoo. R, X, S, needs to be pretty damn bad to get any of these letters here.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 15, 2005

The good advice in the previous two comments notwithstanding, I would not recommend this as a lead for someone who is not solid at the grade. NOT a good "first 5.9 lead".
By KevinCO
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 24, 2006

Place a directional at the base. There is a bomber small stopper placements before the bolt. Without a directional, a fall could potentially pull the stopper (depending on where your belayer is). I know of a climber that died falling backwards before reaching the first bolt. I don't know if his pro pulled or if he didn't place anything before the bolt.
Sep 18, 2006

I pretty sure the guy who died on this route fell before reaching the first bolt. I think he had a nut in, but pulled it on the way down which flipped him upside down, sending him head first into the rocks below. In any case I'm almost positive he hit head first, and thats what killed him.
By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This climb looks easier than it is. I agree with the gear comments - bring lots of small wires and place them after you've used the thin jams. Footholds are getting a little slippery.
By Will Buckman
From: Devils Tower
Aug 22, 2007

Thought provoking is definitely the way to describe this really good route. The amount of concentration used makes this feel longer than it is. Put your trust in the micros and send!!!
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 27, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

While not the crux, the difficulties do not end after the 2nd bolt, so don't let your guard down. Very sustained, even if not terribly demanding physically. This is a great route, and worthwhile if you can keep it together on 5.9 face climbs. I didn't place any nuts larger than a #3 Rock, as the larger pin scars would not take good nuts. A #5 or 6 Stopper will fit in one or two spots right next to the second bolt, but you'll be hurting if that's the smallest you brought.
By David Bayendor
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

This is an excellent route, though oddly named. The crack takes small cams and nuts well, but it is easy to runout and a fall would be a problem. It gets pretty strenuous at the top. Offers a little of everything: friction, crack, bolts and pro placement. HIghly recommended if you are a working your way to a solid 5.9 lead.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

So far as I know, this route was named "5.11 Crack" because that was the expected grade before its first free ascent. That it was much easier than that was simply an unforeseen occurrence.

If you fall before the first bolt, you may be flipped upside down if your nut fails. The sign out by the campground that says "climbing is dangerous, etc" was placed their after somebody cracked open their skull and died when their nut failure caused them to flip. Wear a helmet on this beast, set your nuts well, or plan not to fall.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

In order to do this climb in a reasonably safe manner, skill in placing small wired stoppers is essential. There is a decent crack that can be slotted with a small stopper after getting a high left foot smeared on the slab just above start. Better be solid at "old style 5.9;" this is not a trivial lead or suitable for a first 5.9 lead. A fatality occurred here.
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Just a bit of FA "beta:" First ascent was by Mike Parker in 1968.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 25, 2011

I found small Metolius offset cams to be useful on this climb.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Aug 5, 2012

big puddle of blood under this today... Everyone OK?

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