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Pacific Ocean Cliff
Routes Sorted
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5.10b Toprope TR 
California Coast 
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 
Dizzy Dial S 
Native Rights T 
Superstitious S 
Whale Nation S 

5.10b Toprope 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi, and Sharon Urquhart
Season: Any
Page Views: 157
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Apr 13, 2015

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Wow. Anchor bolts for the 5.10b TR. Might as well...

Description 

Around the corner from Superstitious is a short toprope that follows a few bulges. The anchors bolts are oddly placed as if the route was originally intended to have lead bolts. Rappel from the tree above to get down to the bolts.

Location 

25' right of Superstitious

Protection 

Tree anchor to rap down to bolts below the lip


Comments on 5.10b Toprope Add Comment
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By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 13, 2015

This would be a sweet little route if it was bolted, but fun top rope nonetheless. I climbed it on self belay and just anchored from the tree, skipping the bolts. I also experimented with traversing over to the bolts from the top of the chimney, that is somewhat an option if you traverse over on lead with a nest of small gear.

I also noticed these are the same bolts, hangers, and rusted quick links as on the wall 100' NE of Dizzy Dial. Does anyone know who did these FAs?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Apr 15, 2015

Ahh, the sea...

F.A. : That would be Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi, and Sharon Urquhart, I'm pretty sure. Bolt it!
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 15, 2015

It's funny, the bolts are in great condition, just those quicklinks!!

There's another route that they bolted on a wall 100' NW of PO wall. I'm curious if they ever attached a name to it or not. The arete is decently fun, but the crack is beyond crumbly. I think it must have been an abandoned project to lead the crack.

Rock Climbing Photo: Mystery Routes, unknown crack and arete
Mystery Routes, unknown crack and arete


Rock Climbing Photo: Matching bolts on the unknown climb
Matching bolts on the unknown climb