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South Buttress 1
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5.10 (unknown) TR 

5.10 (unknown) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Katz?
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on May 7, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Left 5.10 route on South Buttress 1. Follow the an...

Description 

Crux is above the 3rd bolt. I believe you don't start in the overhang*, but climb up right and traverse left onto the climb from the big ledge.

The bolts are crap, so don't lead this!

A left hold is loose above the 3rd bolt. Don't yard this off onto your belayer. It's big enough to kill someone if it hits 'em in the head!

Location 

Right and around the corner from Pink Drips. Walk off is easy. Start right in the chimney, traverse left across the huge pigeon ledge to under the first bolt, then follow the bolts to the top. There is another bolted climb to the right of this on the wall right of this. That is a 5.9+ (don't lead it either!)

Protection 

TR. Use LIVE trees or boulder to setup TR. You'll want a long extension to get the rope in a good position. I recommend double rapping and clipping one side of the rope into the bolts with quickdraws to help keep the rope directed properly.


Comments on 5.10 (unknown) Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 13, 2007

  • Yes that's true Jordan, do not take the overhang directly (which is Batman and Owen).

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