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Lookout Mountain Crag
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L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1

Type:  Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b C1 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,915
Submitted By: Steve Matthys on Oct 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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The 5.10 crack (trad).


#3 in the beta picture, this route is an easy aid if you can not lead it. You should be solid on 5.10 lead before you attempt this on lead, some of the placements are tricky.


Small cams and stoppers. The TR anchors are very hard to reach, plan on setting an anchor and having somebody lower you to them.

Photos of 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: A little rest before the tough part!
A little rest before the tough part!

Comments on 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" Add Comment
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By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0

I have done this route once or twice, the lower section is a blast with great pro and fun fingerlocks with good edges for feet. There is good gear under the overhang but only marginal gear above, I just put a good cam in, extended it and pulled the roof which is slightly akward. I wasn't sure if this was 5.9 or 10 c. It would be cool if it was 10 c but it would be the only 5.10 trad route I have ever done. Also you can get a red lowe sliding nut just above the lip of the roof, but it's kinda blind and wierd, a friend of mine took a fall on one and it held. I think there might be a nut placment above too or another small cam, but it seems the energy is better spent topping it out.
By darin
Sep 14, 2007

Did this for the first time last night. Nice climbing, that protects well with small cams, and a few stoppers. Plug an Alien below the roof and run to the top from there. A rating of 10c might be a bit inflated, but somewhere in the 5.10 range for sure.
By Ken McVicker
Sep 17, 2007

I would agree that this is 5.10, but I think a low letter rating. This was a really fun climb with ring lock, finger stacking and lots of small edges, even a Gaston or two.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Oct 18, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0

I think that Deviant in Eldo is harder then this one, at least more sustained and pumpy. I flashed this clean but had to rest on gear on Deviant. I think 9 is a good bet if it's a 10. It's a 1 move wonder IMO.
By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 7, 2008

A Wonderful little route, would prob. be old-school 5.9+ at Eldo, pulling the roof actually isn't that bad, you can fire in a bomber Blue TCU or equivalent for some piece of mind right above the roof, and its just a big pull on jugs. Fun, thin moves below this as well with a few decent fingerlocks in the thin crack. The rock here in excellent, not to mention 5 minutes from my house! :)
By John Layko Torkleson
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b C1

Felt 5.10 to me. Great finger locks down low. Once you figure out the sequence at the roof, pulling it is not that bad.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 3, 2012

There are no independent anchors for this climb. The best ones to use are to climber's left on the 5.10 face. The crux on this is at the roof and short. It is no harder than 5.9 below the roof.
By kevinthediltz
From: Durango, CO
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C0

Climbed this today in 40 degree weather. This is a really fun route, good finger jams down low with a nice rest just before the roof. Heel hook above the roof as soon as you can swing a leg up there, and you will pull it no problem.
By tomrobinson
From: San Diego/ Denver
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A0

Did some top-rope solo out at the crag today. All the routes were pretty nice. This was a great climb. Good slabby edging and finger locks to high foot thrust crux at the top. 5.9/5.9-. Watch out for rattlers, just about stepped on one today!!
By tdziedzina
From: Golden
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1

Really great crack for Golden! Feels about 5.9, maybe 5.9+. Great fingerlocks and good edges for your feet mostly on the left side of the crack. Sometimes peters down to tips/less than tips, but you usually have great feet. Good rests throughout as well. The pro is pretty good, but if you aren't solid on trad gear, I wouldn't recommend it. The roof is pretty intimidating, but once you figure out how to do it, it doesn't feel too horrible. I got a decent heel hook, but other things will work (my girlfriend had some other beta). Best climb at the crag for sure!

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