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Squeeze Ledge
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50% Chance of Rain S 
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50% Chance of Rain 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: David Frasier
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: TJ Souther on Nov 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

You will be facing this route as soon as you top out the scramble up to the squeeze ledge. I found myself climbing the crack for the majority of the climb and having to step out onto the face to make some very awkward clips although the guidebook says the route follows the face. I wouldn't bother to climb it again as it was poorly bolted, would make a better trad climb.

Location 

Bolted line directly in front of you after topping out the scramble up to the ledge, farthest bolted line to the right on the ledge

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors (2 bolts with quicklinks)


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By paul.adams.3
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 20, 2015

You're probably thinking this route would be a good warm up. So was I, as I led up, and got sucked into the crack, which would be the only way to climb this route at 5.7. I ended up running it out past the second to last bolt since it was near impossible to clip from the crack. That along with the fact that the bolts are horribly rusted out make this one to avoid
By Thierry
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Nov 28, 2016

The DCA says: "The grade is 11 if you climb the face and don't use the crack to the right"
By Alex James
From: Ballard, WA
Feb 20, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The bolt line for this route is terrible. The face following the bolts is really really hard like 11 at least. The bolt hangers are also rusting and I'm not sure I trust falling on them. If you climb the crack, thats pretty easy but thats also a seperate trad route. Its also intimidating and hard to try and traverse out and clip the bolts from the crack. This route is totally misrepresented in the guidebook and should be changed in the next edition.

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