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5. Romance Novels

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Going Steady TR 
Hidden Target, The TR 
Middlemarch TR 
New York to Dallas 33 TR 
Night Smoke TR 
Pride and Prejudice TR 
Vanity Fair TR 
When Two Paths Meet TR 

5. Romance Novels Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.14629, -74.1668 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 625
Administrators: SMarsh, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Nov 18, 2016
Forecast:
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60°
Sunday

89° | 64°
Monday

86° | 64°
Tuesday

82° | 65°
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81° | 65°
Thursday

76° | 55°
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BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - Left (SW) side: A. Middlemarch C....

Description 

Less-than-vertical cliff with many features, some routes up to 60 feet tall.

Left (WNW) from the Good Book wall. Faces mainly SSW.

Top Rope access: The least difficult is to go around way left (NW) under next obvious cliff (Adventure Stories) and up steep through cleft (lat long approx N41.1465 W74.1673) on its Left side (could be dangerously slippery with wet leaves or ice) to reach top of cliffs. Then walk horizontal right (SE) about 150 ft to get above this sector, then down a little to edge of cliff - (Tree anchor with static line).

Another way might be to climb the route Northwest Passage
around the right end of the Adventure Strories rock, then traverse Right (E) along the top.

Or can scramble up around the Right side of this Romance Novels rock.

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There 

- - > See on this Photo

Three ways to get here:
a) First go to the Good Book wall, then hike / scramble WNW about 200 feet, going down past the base of two block cliffs. Stop below the first (right-hand) cliff.

b) From the junction of Tower Wall tier trail and the Good Book access trail, go steep up NE about 100 feet. At the top of the steep section, turn off Left and go 260 ft NW roughly horizontal across the top of the Wichquawanck + Nechtanc + Scheybichi + Tulpehocken cliffs. Then NNW short steep scramble (GPS lat long approx N41.1461 W74.1671) between cliffs. See two blocky cliffs, and scramble up NE to the Right-hand one.

c) First go to Basilisk sector, then around its right (east) end, up past Manayunk sector and scramble N steep gully between Manayunk and Tulpehocken sectors to a gentler part at NW end of a wide flat ledge. Then scramble N up another steep gully. See two blocky cliffs, and scramble up NE to the Right-hand one.

Climbing Season

For the s. Books Tier area.

Weather station 2.2 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 5. Romance Novels

Middlemarch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  New York : Powerlinez : ... : 5. Romance Novels
If you like wide / off-width cracks, or just want to practice your technique, you'll wish this crack were longer (and that the steep dirt approach were shorter).warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree)....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Photos of 5. Romance Novels Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Romance Novels - Right (SE) side:  . Q. (Adventure...
BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - Right (SE) side: . Q. (Adventure...
Rock Climbing Photo: Romance Novels - main face from SSW: E. The Hidden...
BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - main face from SSW: E. The Hidden...

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