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5 Gallon Buckets 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 31,243
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006

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I figured my friends were bored seeing photos of m...

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The huge huecos of 5 Gallon Buckets are often the first piece of rock that a climber touches on his or her first trip to the park. The fun and consistent 5.8 climbing is straightforward and enjoyable as a warmup or a toprope. A Smith classic!

This is the left-most route on the big huecoed section of the wall. There's one bolt that can't be seen from the ground (it's in one of the big huecos), so remember to bring a 'draw for it.

Due to its central location and easy grade this is possibly the most popular route at Smith Rock. There is almost always a rope up on it and a crowd of people at the base. It receives early morning sun and keeps it all day, making it a good starting point for the cold days.


Route is protected by 7 bolts and a bolted anchor.

Photos of 5 Gallon Buckets Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Shimmon 1st outdoor climb!
Luke Shimmon 1st outdoor climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of 5-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Nearing the top of 5-Gallon Buckets. 3/2009.
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the buckets up
BETA PHOTO: Follow the buckets up
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark leads 5 Gallon Buckets on a sunny October aft...
Mark leads 5 Gallon Buckets on a sunny October aft...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the top of 5.
Me at the top of 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hueco Ladder
Hueco Ladder
Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up...
Warming up...
Rock Climbing Photo: from across the river spring 2013
from across the river spring 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Shadow
Rock Climbing Photo: Phew, he's almost here...
Phew, he's almost here...
Rock Climbing Photo: I threw my rope down and forced my friend to lead ...
I threw my rope down and forced my friend to lead ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Very nice chain anchors at the top :)
Very nice chain anchors at the top :)
Rock Climbing Photo: DrJen on lead at Smith Rock's Five Gallon Buckets
DrJen on lead at Smith Rock's Five Gallon Buckets
Rock Climbing Photo: DrJen on lead at Smith Rock's Five Gallon Buckets
BETA PHOTO: DrJen on lead at Smith Rock's Five Gallon Buckets
Rock Climbing Photo: Side view of route.
Side view of route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Five Gallon Buckets.
Climber on Five Gallon Buckets.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun lead!
Fun lead!
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun lead!
Fun lead!

Comments on 5 Gallon Buckets Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2016
By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thought this was a fun warm-up for the neighboring routes.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2006

A fun warm up, but once the sun hits this route, the sun turns the buckets into slippery buckets of ooze.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Dec 28, 2006

The bolt in the hueco is just cruel. When its cold enough that the rock feels like the metal, its easy to grab the hanger thinking its just a feature. Good warmup.
By ferrells
Jan 18, 2008

Is this another name for a route in the Watts guide, or is it newer than the guidebook?
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 22, 2008

This route was put up just as the 1992 Watts guide went to print. If you read the introduction to the Watts Guide carefully he mentions it by name, along with other late entries.
By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2009

An awesome route that gets traffic seemingly 24/7. If you don't have to wait in line, you should buy a lottery ticket the same day. The relentless hiking does not diminish the awesome climbing however. And the shoe rubber filling up most the footholds should be of help to those lacking any footwork. If you're feeling a little more saucy, or just don't see the bolt hidden in the hueco, there's really no problem in running it out to the next bolt. This is Smith after all so it wouldn't hurt to get into the run-out spirit even on the warm-up 5.8's.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Sep 18, 2009

You can see your reflection on many of the holds...
By Todd99
May 13, 2011

The first bolt is pretty high off the deck. For safety's sake a stick clip isn't a bad idea. All the holds are pretty solid leading up to it but might be a little nerve wracking for a new leader.
By Casey Holmes
Jun 6, 2011

Its a fun warm up, but watch out for bird droppings. Two days in a row I saw someone get hit by a bomber.
By lunabloomgirl
From: North East Washington
Jul 6, 2011

Serious first bolt...
that's what I'd been told with serious solemn looks from other climbers.
By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
May 27, 2013

Best 5.8 sport route I have climbed anywhere!
By James Kang
Oct 19, 2014

My wife and I noticed yesterday that the 6th and 7th bolt hangers are starting to spin.
By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Aug 27, 2015

Repeating the previous comment from 10/2014. The 6th bolt, second down from anchors, was spinning. The 7th I didn't notice as much, but could be I wasn't paying good attention.
By another Chad
Aug 27, 2015

Why are people reporting spinning hangers? It's like stapling a flyer to a telephone pole warning your neighbors there's a dead squirrel in the road.

Tighten the thing up a bit, it is either going to be a 1/2" or 9/16" head.

By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 28, 2015

The dead squirrel had the plauge, right?
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Oct 18, 2015

perfect plate haul. ie plate tectonics in the Red
By dave Hause
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

For the grade this climb has excellent moves. I'd say it's more like Five point six gallon buckets though.
By nbollier
From: Portland, Oregon
Jul 19, 2016

Reminds me of RRG. Awesome jug haul with very cool features and pockets you can put your whole arm in
By nomdeploom
Sep 6, 2016

After a long hiatus from the sport, I'm just arriving back at a leading limit of 5.8. I, my wife (also vertically challenged), and two other climbers on this day all agreed that this is a nice 5.7. We climbed "Hissing Llamas" (5.8) on the Phoenix Buttress immediately afterwards, and it was much, much harder.

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